Abstract Literature has documented how designers use fashion archives as explorative inspiration for designing and cutting fashion collections. (Clarke and De La Haye 2014; Rhys 2011; Riegels Melchior and Svensson 2014; Murphy 2011). This derivative research can inform choices of fabric, silhouette, shape and the skills and technologies employed in the execution of the collection. This paper describes a case study that asked design students to identify mistakes in manufacture, in selected garments from the Yorkshire Fashion Archive held at University of Leeds. It explores the potential for accidental or intentional mistakes to be a source of inspiration for fashion design. There is a lack of literature that describes how fashion designers have been inspired by manufacturing mistakes in archive garments, which the research seeks to redress. A broader literature review emphasised how definitions of human mistakes have stimulated ideas and resulted in innovation in different disciplines and contexts and these ideas are transposed into a fashion context within this study. Some of the manufacturing mistakes identified in the archive garments included: sleeves sewn in the wrong way, incorrect stitch tension, using patterns that were unsuitable for a design, cutting fabric without making sure pattern pieces were straight, using the wrong interfacing or no interfacing at all, etc. These findings informed the design and eventual manufacture of a collection of contemporary garments. The documentation of this process provides an important reference point for garment creators to disrupt conventional approaches to fashion design and technology and supports the development of innovative skills. These can be utilised to create new and novel clothing designs with which to enrich the global fashion industry.

中文翻译：

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破坏时尚档案：制造错误的偶然性

摘要 文献记录了设计师如何使用时尚档案作为设计和剪裁时尚系列的探索灵感。（Clarke 和 De La Haye 2014；Rhys 2011；Riegels Melchior 和 Svensson 2014；Murphy 2011）。这种衍生研究可以为面料、轮廓、形状以及执行该系列所采用的技能和技术的选择提供信息。本文描述了一个案例研究，该研究要求设计专业的学生在来自利兹大学的约克郡时装档案馆的精选服装中识别制造错误。它探索了意外或故意错误成为时装设计灵感来源的可能性。缺乏文献描述时装设计师如何从档案服装中的制造错误中获得灵感，而该研究旨在纠正这些错误。更广泛的文献综述强调了人为错误的定义如何在不同学科和环境中激发思想并导致创新，并且这些思想在本研究中被转化为时尚背景。档案服装中发现的一些制造错误包括：袖子缝制方式错误、线迹张力不正确、使用不适合设计的图案、在没有确保图案片直的情况下裁剪面料、使用错误的接口或没有接口all，等等。这些发现为当代服装系列的设计和最终制造提供了信息。该过程的文档为服装创作者打破传统的时装设计和技术方法并支持创新技能的发展提供了重要的参考点。