Abstract

An analysis was conducted of the differences between expert and novice apparel practitioner’s areas of attention and criteria when assessing the fit of a shirt, using goggle type eye-trackers and a questionnaire. The areas of interest (AOIs) which the expert group viewed longer than the novice group during fit assessment were at the collar, waist, side seam line, and dart; the novice group viewed across the front, the waist, and the hem area longer. Also, experts viewed the armhole more frequently than novices. Heat map records of viewing time showed that the gaze of the experts was distributed, viewing the waist, hem, side seam line, dart, and armhole, but the novices generally spent concentrated time assessing the front of the shirts. In the assessment items that were identified through questionnaires, the novices did not acknowledge fit criteria such as the verticality and balance of the front and back of the shirt at the side seam, hem balance, depth and width of the armholes, slope of the shoulders, bicep height, or grainline. The study identified AOIs and fit criteria that differed between the expert and novice groups providing results to inform training needs for novices in fit analysis.

摘要

使用护目镜型眼动仪和问卷，对专家和新手服装从业者在评估衬衫合身性时关注的领域和标准之间的差异进行了分析。专家组在合身性评估中比新手组观察时间更长的兴趣区（AOI）在衣领、腰部、侧缝线和飞镖处；新手组横看前、腰、下摆区域较长。此外，专家比新手更频繁地查看袖窿。查看时间的热图记录显示，专家的目光是分散的，查看腰部、下摆、侧缝线、飞镖和袖窿，但新手一般将时间集中在评估衬衫的正面。在通过问卷确定的评估项目中，新手不承认合身标准，例如衬衫正面和背面侧缝处的垂直度和平衡、下摆平衡、袖窿的深度和宽度、肩部的倾斜度、二头肌高度或纹路。该研究确定了专家组和新手组之间不同的 AOI 和拟合标准，提供结果以告知新手在拟合分析中的培训需求。