The four articles in this issue of Luxury: History Culture Consumption might, at first glance, appear to have little to do with luxury, or at least many of its popularly understood qualities. Established concepts such as rarity, expense, excess, tradition and distinction have dominated both the promotion and critique of contemporary luxury production and consumption. While these attributes continue to provide the inspiration and desire for luxury goods and services, certainly those provided by contemporary global luxury brands, we are also witnessing an increasing critical interrogation of those same qualities. Does luxury have to be rare, expensive and encumbered with dynastic manufacturing pedigree to be understood and recognized as luxury? Surely such a contested and historically fluctuating concept should not be constrained by commercial imperatives, however ubiquitous and seductively marketed? Indeed, many of the most successful of today’s luxury producers are asking just those same questions, and the possibilities, or perhaps impossibilities, of sustainable, green and responsible luxury are high on the agendas of Jonathan Faiers is Professor of Fashion Thinking, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK. jonathanfaiersluxury@gmail.com

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社论介绍

本期《奢侈品：历史文化消费》中的四篇文章乍一看似乎与奢侈品无关，或者至少与奢侈品的许多广为人知的品质无关。稀有、昂贵、过剩、传统和独特等既定概念主导了当代奢侈品生产和消费的宣传和批评。虽然这些属性继续为奢侈品和服务提供灵感和渴望，当然是当代全球奢侈品牌提供的那些，但我们也目睹了对这些相同品质的越来越多的批判性质疑。奢侈品一定要稀有吗 昂贵且受制于王朝制造血统才能被理解和认可为奢侈品？当然，这样一个有争议的和历史上波动的概念不应该受到商业需求的约束，无论多么普遍和诱人的营销？事实上，当今许多最成功的奢侈品生产商都在问同样的问题，可持续、绿色和负责任的奢侈品的可能性或不可能性在 Jonathan Faiers 的议程上占据重要位置，他是温彻斯特商学院时尚思维教授英国南安普敦大学艺术学院。jonathanfaiersluxury@gmail.com 英国南安普敦大学温彻斯特艺术学院时尚思维教授 Jonathan Faiers 将绿色和负责任的奢侈品放在重要议程上。jonathanfaiersluxury@gmail.com 英国南安普敦大学温彻斯特艺术学院时尚思维教授 Jonathan Faiers 将绿色和负责任的奢侈品放在重要议程上。jonathanfaiersluxury@gmail.com