Abstract Focusing on the account book of the MP and antiquary Sir Edward Dering (1598–1644), which covers the decade of his life in which he came of age, was knighted, and embarked on an ambitious political and courtly career, this article argues that his account book was a space in which Dering recorded momentous life events and meditated upon his purchases. Dering reveled in his attire, spending a great deal of money on it, as well as taking the time to record each element of its construction and decorative design in minute detail. Purchasing luxury goods – particularly clothing – was an important way for an ambitious politician to express his social, emotional and political links to patrons, and to show his suitability for promotion. While he begins the account book in 1619 by chastising himself for spending too much in a “prodigal year,” by the end of the account book in 1628, Dering seems content to buy expensive goods, including a costly linen damask tablecloth depicting the story of the prodigal son. This article traces Dering’s acquisition of luxury goods at home in Kent, in London and overseas, and places him in relation to contemporary discourses of luxury and prodigality. It argues that Dering’s consumption of luxury goods was part of a wider project of self-definition, which included having his portrait painted, and even forging his family history

中文翻译：

---

败家年？在 17 世纪的账簿中协商奢侈品和时尚身份

摘要 本文着眼于国会议员和古董商爱德华·德林爵士 (1598-1644) 的账簿，该账簿涵盖了他成年、被封为爵士并开始雄心勃勃的政治和宫廷生涯的十年间，他的账簿是德林记录人生重大事件和沉思购买的空间。德林陶醉于他的着装，花了很多钱，并花时间详细记录其结构和装饰设计的每个元素。购买奢侈品——尤其是服装——是一位雄心勃勃的政治家表达他与顾客的社会、情感和政治联系，并表明他适合晋升的重要方式。当他在 1619 年开始记账时，他责备自己在“浪子之年”花费太多，”到 1628 年的帐簿末尾，德令似乎满足于购买昂贵的商品，包括描绘浪子故事的昂贵亚麻锦缎桌布。本文追溯了德林在肯特郡、伦敦和海外对奢侈品的收购，并将他与当代关于奢侈品和挥霍的话语联系起来。它争辩说，德林对奢侈品的消费是更广泛的自我定义计划的一部分，其中包括画他的肖像，甚至伪造他的家族历史 并将他置于当代关于奢侈和挥霍的话语中。它争辩说，德林对奢侈品的消费是更广泛的自我定义计划的一部分，其中包括画他的肖像，甚至伪造他的家族历史 并将他置于当代关于奢侈和挥霍的话语中。它争辩说，德林对奢侈品的消费是更广泛的自我定义计划的一部分，其中包括画他的肖像，甚至伪造他的家族历史