Summary This article examines the ways in which the cuisine of the Portuguese diaspora in the USA comes to represent the ethnic heritage of those who produce it, both as the food that holds connotations of home, and the food that allows them to perform their identity as Portuguese-Americans. The article focuses mainly on the work of two cookbook authors: Maria Lawton and David Leite. It analyses how specific culinary techniques, such as those used to make the onion, oil and garlic base for many dishes, which is known in Portuguese as the refogado, may reveal tensions between cultural identities, practices and values. It explores how the materiality of food and specific dishes are used by cooks to negotiate memory, emotions and cultural identity.

中文翻译：

---

家的味道：葡美烹饪文学中的 Refogado 和烹饪身份

总结 本文考察了旅居美国的葡萄牙侨民的美食如何代表其生产者的民族遗产，既是具有家乡内涵的食物，也是让他们能够表现出作为他们的身份的食物。葡萄牙裔美国人。本文主要关注两位食谱作者的工作：Maria Lawton 和 David Leite。它分析了特定的烹饪技术，例如用于制作许多菜肴的洋葱、油和大蒜基础的技术，在葡萄牙语中称为 refogado，可能会揭示文化身份、实践和价值观之间的紧张关系。它探讨了厨师如何利用食物和特定菜肴的物质性来协商记忆、情感和文化认同。