Abstract In preparation for the conservation treatment of an eighteenth-century robe à la française in the collection of the Kunstmuseum Den Haag (KMDH), Netherlands, analytical research was carried out to understand both the manufacturing process and the degradation issues extant in its brocade fabric and decorative lace elements. For this an interdisciplinary team from a range of institutions and fields used various analytical techniques, including ultra-high performance liquid chromatography with photo-diode array detector attached to a high-resolution mass spectrometer (UHPLC-PDA-HRMS), scanning electron microscope with energy dispersive X-ray (SEM-EDX) and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The resulting identification of the principle colourant and materials of the fabric, as well as the presence of elements such as starch paste and gallic tannins, guided the treatment by helping to identify the conservation priorities as well as significant aspects of this example of historic fashion.

中文翻译：

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对18世纪法国长袍的材料和降解过程的跨学科研究

摘要为准备在荷兰海牙美术馆（KMDH）馆藏的十八世纪法国长袍的养护处理，进行了分析研究，以了解其锦缎织物的制造过程和现存的降解问题。和装饰花边元素。为此，来自不同机构和领域的跨学科团队使用了各种分析技术，包括超高效液相色谱仪，其光电二极管阵列检测器与高分辨率质谱仪（UHPLC-PDA-HRMS）相连，扫描电子显微镜与能量色散X射线（SEM-EDX）和傅立叶变换红外光谱（FTIR）。由此识别出织物的主要着色剂和材料，