ABSTRACT This essay shows that middle-class men engaged with fashion often and openly in nineteenth-century Spain. Through a survey of previously unstudied archival materials, it also recasts Spanish men’s fashion as part of a larger, interconnected system of producers, distributors and consumers. By historicizing textual and visual evidence (e.g., paper garment patterns, fashion plates) printed in professional tailoring journals, the following study challenges the notion that fashion was an exclusively feminine and feminizing pursuit during the second half of the nineteenth century. Apprentices, journeymen, master cutters and their professional journals, such as El Arte Español (1871–1878), El Genio y el Arte (1881–1888) and La Moda de Madrid (1884–1887), identified fashionable ecosystems as fertile ground for the flourishing of an aspirational national image that cohered around sartorial craftsmanship and intellectual capital, pride in Spanish métiers and the cultivation of male homosocial bonds of confidence and trust.

中文翻译：

---

西班牙剪裁：剪裁 19 世纪西班牙的男士时尚和民族认同

摘要 这篇文章表明，在 19 世纪的西班牙，中产阶级男性经常公开地接触时尚。通过对以前未经研究的档案材料的调查，它还将西班牙男装重新塑造为一个更大的、相互关联的生产商、分销商和消费者系统的一部分。通过将印刷在专业剪裁期刊上的文字和视觉证据（例如，纸质服装图案、时装板）历史化，以下研究挑战了在 19 世纪下半叶时尚是一种纯粹的女性化和女性化追求的观念。学徒、熟练工、切割大师及其专业期刊，例如 El Arte Español (1871–1878)、El Genio y el Arte (1881–1888) 和 La Moda de Madrid (1884–1887)，