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Liberating Taste: Memories of War, Food and Cooking in Northern Mozambique
Journal of Southern African Studies ( IF 0.7 ) Pub Date : 2020-07-31 , DOI: 10.1080/03057070.2020.1793518
Jonna Katto 1
Affiliation  

This article focuses on the sensory and affective dimension of food, cooking and eating in ex-combatants’ life narratives in northern Mozambique. It explores the polytemporality reflected in food memories, and the ways in which the past, present and future are connected in the present experience of remembering. For the ex-combatants, food is strongly linked to their memories of the liberation struggle (1964–74). Drawing on life history research with Ciyaawo-speaking ex-combatants in the north-western province of Niassa between 2012 and 2014, this article traces the changing ideas and meanings of food and eating in their life narratives from their childhood, through wartime to the period of ‘liberation’. After independence, most ex-combatants settled down as subsistence farmers with the expectation that ‘finally’ they would ‘eat well’. Yet, for many, their experience of independent Mozambique has been that of socio-economic and political marginalisation. While food is crucial to survival, this article looks at how food is so much more than just nutrition. In the ex-combatants’ memories, aesthetic aspects of food are closely intertwined with the revolutionary ideas of liberation and socio-economic justice. The meaning of food in the ex-combatants’ narratives, as the article argues, is shaped simultaneously and in complex ways through their personal aesthetic experiences and memories of food as well as the changing political aesthetics.

中文翻译:

解放口味:莫桑比克北部的战争,食物和烹饪的回忆

本文关注莫桑比克北部前战斗人员生活叙事中食物,烹饪和饮食的感官和情感影响。它探索了食物记忆中反映的多时相性,以及在当前的记忆体验中过去,现在和未来之间的联系方式。对于前战斗人员来说,食物与他们对解放斗争的记忆有着密切的联系(1964-74年)。本文利用西北地区尼亚萨(Niassa)讲希亚沃(Ciyaawo)的前战斗人员在2012年至2014年之间的生活史研究,追溯了从童年到战时至战后时期的生活叙事中食物和饮食观念和意义的变化解放。独立后,大多数前战斗人员以自给自足的农民身份定居下来,期望他们“最终”会“吃得很好”。然而,对许多人来说,他们独立莫桑比克的经历一直是社会经济和政治边缘化的经历。尽管食物对生存至关重要,但本文着眼于食物不仅限于营养。在前战斗人员的记忆中,食物的美学方面与解放和社会经济正义的革命思想紧密地交织在一起。如前所述,前战斗人员叙事中的食物含义是通过他们个人的审美经历和对食物的记忆以及不断变化的政治美学而以复杂的方式同时形成的。食物的美学方面与解放和社会经济正义的革命思想息息相关。如前所述,前战斗人员叙事中的食物意义是通过其个人的审美经历和对食物的记忆以及不断变化的政治美学而以复杂的方式同时形成的。食物的美学方面与解放和社会经济正义的革命思想息息相关。如前所述,前战斗人员叙事中的食物含义是通过他们个人的审美经历和对食物的记忆以及不断变化的政治美学而以复杂的方式同时形成的。
更新日期:2020-07-31
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