ABSTRACT Fashion inspired by local culture references is our starting point for understanding how fashion, as a contemporary and dynamic dimension, can preserve the capacity of representing and maintaining local traditions. Through an interpretive approach, we look at the relationship between traditional clothing preservation and the creation of a contemporary fashion associated with the gaucho traditionalist culture in southern Brazil. The study counts on 22 in-depth interviews with consumers and producers of the traditional and contemporary gaucho fashion movement, as well as document analysis and netnographic data exploration on gaucho traditions. Results indicate that even facing the resistance from conservative groups that aim to keep clothing stable over time, fashion producers and consumers associated the contemporary gaucho clothes as a modern mechanism for tradition preservation. It allows the adjustment of tradition representation in line with changes in social roles, especially gender patterns. Findings reveal that contemporary gaucho fashion challenges the rigid conception of tradition, once it represents a democratic instrument able to supply a sense of belonging adjusted to contemporary time. Finally, we theorize about the ability of symbolic representations of a particular culture to be transferred to emerging fashion elements over time, without losing the bond with the local tradition.

中文翻译：

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通过时尚消费保持传统：巴西南部高乔传统主义文化的现代服饰

摘要受当地文化参考启发的时尚是我们了解时尚如何作为当代和动态维度如何保持代表和维护当地传统的能力的起点。通过一种解释性的方法，我们研究了传统服装保存与与巴西南部的印第安人混血儿传统主义文化相关联的当代时尚创造之间的关系。这项研究依靠对传统和现代印第安人混血儿时尚运动的消费者和生产者的22次深入访谈，以及有关印第安人混血儿传统的文件分析和网络志数据探索。结果表明，即使面对旨在保持服装长期稳定的保守派人士的抵抗，时装生产商和消费者将当代的高乔式服装与传统的保存机制结合在一起。它允许根据社会角色，尤其是性别模式的变化来调整传统代表制。研究结果表明，现代高加索人的时尚一旦代表了一种能够提供适应当代时间的归属感的民主工具，便对传统的僵化概念提出了挑战。最后，我们对特定文化的象征性表达随着时间的流逝而转移到新兴时尚元素的能力进行了理论化，而又不失去与当地传统的联系。研究结果表明，现代高加索人的时尚一旦代表了一种能够提供适应当代时间的归属感的民主工具，便对传统的僵化概念提出了挑战。最后，我们对特定文化的象征性表达随着时间的流逝而转移到新兴时尚元素的能力进行了理论化，而又不失去与当地传统的联系。研究结果表明，现代高加索人的时尚一旦代表了一种能够提供适应当代时间的归属感的民主工具，便对传统的僵化概念提出了挑战。最后，我们对特定文化的象征性表达随着时间的流逝而转移到新兴时尚元素的能力进行了理论化，而又不失去与当地传统的联系。