In light of the ongoing public controversy surrounding fashion sustainability, this paper sets out to identify misalignments that relate to the definitions of sustainable fashion. It does so by examining the discourse of different agents in this polylogical argumentation - fashion companies and the European Parliament as well as citizens, small brands and NGOs - as revealed through documents and tweets published online. Our findings show misalignments in the opening stage of the argumentative discussion at the level of explicit and implicit definitions of sustainability as well as in how the agents responsible are discursively portrayed. We argue that the existence of these misalignments may explain the ongoing controversy surrounding sustainable fashion: the different actors do not share univocal starting points and representations of this phenomenon. Methodologically, this paper also advances research on argumentative polylogues, by demonstrating a method for comparing argumentation by different actors using different data sources.

鉴于围绕时尚可持续性的公众争议不断，本文着手确定与可持续时尚定义有关的失调。通过在网上发表的文件和推文中揭示的这种多元论证中的不同代理人的话语，包括时装公司和欧洲议会以及公民，小品牌和非政府组织，可以做到这一点。我们的发现表明，在辩论性讨论的开始阶段，在对可持续性的明确定义和隐含定义的层次上，以及在如何对责任负责人进行刻画时，都存在偏差。我们认为，这些失调的存在可能解释了围绕可持续时尚的持续争议：不同的参与者并没有明确的起点和这种现象的表征。在方法论上，本文还通过论证比较不同参与者使用不同数据源的论证方法的方法，进一步推进了论证多语种的研究。