Israel/Palestine is a site of bitter struggle over definitions of indigeneity and settlerness. In 2008 the first Palestinian “indigenous wine” was released, introducing a discourse of primordial place‐based authenticity into the wine field. Today, winemakers, scientists, autochthonous grapes, and native wines reconfigure the field of gastronationalism. Palestinian and Israeli wine industries can now claim exclusive historical entitlement in a global era in which terroir, that is, the idiosyncratic place, shapes economic and cultural value. Against the dominance of “international varieties,” this indigenous turn in the wine world mobilizes genetics, enology, and ancient texts to rewrite the longue durée of the Israeli/Palestinian landscape. The appropriation of the indigenous grape illustrates the power of science, craft, and taste to reconfigure the human and nonhuman politics of settler colonialism. [settler colonialism, science, gastronationalism, authenticity, wine, terroir, Israel, Palestine]

中文翻译：

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液体异质性

以色列/巴勒斯坦是对土著和定居的定义进行激烈斗争的场所。2008年，第一个巴勒斯坦“土著葡萄酒”发布，将原始的基于地域的真实性引入了葡萄酒领域。如今，酿酒师，科学家，土生土长的葡萄和本地葡萄酒重新配置了美食民族主义领域。如今，巴勒斯坦和以色列的葡萄酒业可以在全球时代中，享有独特的历史权利，在这个时代中，风土，即特有的地方，决定着经济和文化价值。在“国际品种”的统治下，葡萄酒业的这种本土化动员动员了遗传学，酿酒学和古代文献来改写杜瑞的贵族。以色列/巴勒斯坦景观。对土著葡萄的挪用说明了科学，工艺和品味的力量，以重新构造定居者殖民主义的人类和非人类政治。[定居殖民主义，科学，美食民族主义，真实性，葡萄酒，风土，以色列，巴勒斯坦]