It is difficult to think of a comestible that does more historical work than coffee. Certainlywithin European andAnglo-American historiography coffee is taken to be emblematic—even a constituent feature—of at least three grand narratives of “modernity.” It is integral to various versions of Europe’s “consumer revolution” and the formation of thefirst “global economy.” Historians identify coffee as one of the commodities that facilitated Europe’s unprecedented phase of global commerce and colonialism after 1650 and as the catalyst for a whole new material culture—including porcelain, china, and new styles of furniture—that accumulated around its consumption. It retains its global economic importance to this day. Second, as one of the new hot beverages to supplant alcohols as the lubricants of European sociability, coffee is taken to be deeply implicated in the European embrace of various kinds of behavioral norms that distinguish premodern and modern societies. Its consumption required and came to signify “sobriety,” “rationality,” and “respectability” on the part of its consumers. It encouraged

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早期现代英国的咖啡在哪里？

很难想到一种比咖啡更能发挥历史作用的食品。当然，在欧洲和英美史学中，咖啡被认为是至少三个“现代性”宏大叙事的象征——甚至是一个组成特征。它是各种版本的欧洲“消费革命”和第一个“全球经济”形成的组成部分。历史学家将咖啡视为促进欧洲在 1650 年后前所未有的全球商业和殖民主义阶段的商品之一，也是围绕其消费积累的全新物质文化（包括瓷器、瓷器和新型家具）的催化剂。直到今天，它仍保持着其全球经济的重要性。其次，作为取代酒精作为欧洲社交润滑剂的新型热饮之一，咖啡被认为与欧洲对区分前现代社会和现代社会的各种行为规范的接受有着深刻的联系。它的消费要求并开始象征着消费者的“清醒”、“理性”和“体面”。它鼓励