Elspeth Probyn’s latest monograph, Eating the Ocean, is a pleasurable, engaging read—itself an important achievement for a transdisciplinary work that brings together gender, queer and cultural studies to sites of oceanic more-than-human complexity. In a compelling account of an oceanic ‘ethics of attunement’ (p. 131), Probyn charts a truly troubling range of ‘metabolic intimacies’ between fish, humans and the oceans, grappling with the culture and histories that attend critical contemporary political, technoscientific problems associated with eating the ocean. From the limitations of fishing quotas (p. 91) and fish waste (p. 151) to the struggles of bivalves, algae and little fish, Probyn traces her stories across multiple oceans, concentrating on the Pacific waters off Australia and the Scottish coast. Throughout the chapters, Probyn deftly pools and sifts an impressive range of materials, fluently manoeuvring the historical and scientific literature related to her cases. In threading together these multiple strands, Probyn’s writing frequently upwells what other authors may have left tacitly assumed about the history or science of her subjects, encouraging readers to continually reconsider what it is that we think we know about the ocean (e.g., her discussion on the role of marine oxygen and the scholastic tendency to ‘simplify’ the sea, pp. 24–25). A great deal of the value of Probyn’s book is her success in actually deploying her queer feminist practice of writing ‘athwart’—writing crosswise, drawing on an earlier and fittingly maritime meaning of ‘queer’. Her success in writing crosswise is likewise nurtured by an ethnographic method focused on the multiplicities of human–ocean connections and entanglements (what she calls a ‘rhizo-ethology’ after Deleuze and Guattari’s concept of the rhizome).

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书评：Elspeth Probyn 的《吃掉海洋》

埃尔斯佩思·普罗宾 (Elspeth Probyn) 的最新专着《吃掉海洋》(Eating the Ocean) 是一本令人愉悦、引人入胜的读物——它本身就是一项跨学科工作的重要成就，它将性别、酷儿和文化研究结合到海洋比人类复杂的地点。在对海洋“协调伦理”（第 131 页）的引人入胜的描述中，Probyn 描绘了鱼类、人类和海洋之间真正令人不安的“代谢亲密关系”范围，与参与关键当代政治、技术科学的文化和历史作斗争。与吃海洋有关的问题。从捕捞配额（第 91 页）和鱼类废物（第 151 页）的限制到双壳类、藻类和小鱼的挣扎，Probyn 在多个海洋中追溯她的故事，重点关注澳大利亚附近的太平洋水域和苏格兰海岸。在整个章节中，Probyn 巧妙地汇集和筛选了一系列令人印象深刻的材料，流畅地运用了与她的案例相关的历史和科学文献。在将这些多条线索串联在一起时，Probyn 的写作经常提升其他作者可能对她的主题的历史或科学的默认假设，鼓励读者不断重新考虑我们认为我们对海洋的了解（例如，她对海洋的讨论）海洋氧气的作用和“简化”海洋的学术倾向，第 24-25 页）。Probyn 的书的很大价值在于她成功地实际部署了她的酷儿女权主义写作实践，即“横向写作”——横向写作，借鉴了“酷儿”的早期且恰如其分的海洋意义。