This Introduction synthesizes the key themes of this special cluster of articles and explores the implications of the three contributions on garment supply chains after the Rana Plaza disaster. The three articles examine the perspectives of key stakeholders in garment value chains — global buyers, managers of garment factories in Bangladesh, and workers at these factories — and analyses their responses to the new governance initiatives that emerged in the aftermath of Rana Plaza. Placing the contrasting perspectives of these stakeholders alongside each other starkly reveals how their different positions within hierarchically organized global value chains form the particular lens through which they view post-Rana Plaza initiatives. This special cluster scrutinizes the particular understandings of these stakeholders and reveals the very different capacity for voice and influence that they bring to bear in shaping outcomes. It reflects on the contradictory imperatives faced by actors in the garment industry caught between a logic of competition on the one hand and global labour standards norms on the other. The Introduction concludes by examining the prospects for a re-embedding of the market in global value chains via the activation of civil society.

中文翻译：

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拉纳广场之后全球服装行业的争议性认识

本介绍综合了这组特殊文章的关键主题，并探讨了拉纳广场灾难后这三项贡献对服装供应链的影响。这三篇文章探讨了服装价值链中关键利益相关者的观点——全球买家、孟加拉国服装工厂的经理以及这些工厂的工人——并分析了他们对拉纳广场事件后出现的新治理举措的反应。将这些利益相关者的不同观点放在一起，鲜明地揭示了他们在分层组织的全球价值链中的不同位置如何形成他们看待后拉纳广场倡议的特定镜头。这个特殊的集群仔细审查了这些利益相关者的特殊理解，并揭示了他们在塑造结果方面所带来的非常不同的发言权和影响力。它反映了服装行业参与者面临的矛盾，一方面是竞争逻辑，另一方面是全球劳工标准规范。引言最后探讨了通过激活民间社会将市场重新嵌入全球价值链的前景。