This article traces the politics of the wine industry in Alsace in the years after the region’s return to France in 1918. During these years, Alsatian winemakers worked to transform their wines to meet the tastes of French drinkers, following five decades of producing wine for German consumption. As winemakers grappled with how to secure the future of their industry, Alsatian wine became emblematic of the most contentious aspects of reintegration. The introduction of new laws on viticulture raised the question of what was French about wine, the wine industry’s woes symbolised the problems of Alsace’s economic reintegration, and wine became an emblem for often fierce wrangling over identity and belonging in the recovered region. This article traces this process, and underlines the ways in which wine’s importance in understandings of French national culture allowed it to offer a solution to the problems that return to France caused for Alsace’s wine industry in the interwar years. In June 1921, the monthly Bulletin of Alsatian and Lorraine Banking published a history of the brewing industry in the eastern French regions of Alsace and Lorraine. The Bulletin traced local breweries back to 1259, but focussed on the period between 1871 and 1918 when Alsace-Lorraine was annexed into the German Empire. The article described the establishment of new breweries during these years, as beer from Baden and Bavaria flowed across the Rhine into the region’s bars and beerhalls, where it filled the glasses of immigrants from ‘old Germany.’ In this vivid picture, the production and consumption of beer worked alongside the introduction of German systems, laws and institutions to integrate the region and its inhabitants into the mores and cultures of the

中文翻译：

---

阿尔萨斯的葡萄酒酿造和身份政治，1918-1939

这篇文章追溯了阿尔萨斯地区在 1918 年回归法国后的几年里葡萄酒行业的政治。在这些年里，阿尔萨斯酿酒师在为德国人生产葡萄酒长达 5 年之后，努力改造他们的葡萄酒以满足法国饮酒者的口味。消费。当酿酒师努力确保他们行业的未来时，阿尔萨斯葡萄酒成为重新整合最具争议的方面的象征。新的葡萄栽培法的出台引发了一个问题：葡萄酒是法国的什么东西，葡萄酒行业的困境象征着阿尔萨斯经济重新整合的问题，而葡萄酒则成为经常激烈争论身份和归属于恢复地区的象征。这篇文章追溯了这个过程，并强调了葡萄酒在理解法国民族文化中的重要性的方式，使其能够为两次世界大战期间返回法国给阿尔萨斯的葡萄酒行业造成的问题提供解决方案。1921 年 6 月，阿尔萨斯和洛林银行月刊公布了法国东部阿尔萨斯和洛林地区的酿酒业历史。该公报将当地啤酒厂追溯到 1259 年，但重点关注 1871 年至 1918 年间阿尔萨斯-洛林并入德意志帝国的时期。这篇文章描述了这些年来新啤酒厂的建立，因为来自巴登和巴伐利亚的啤酒穿过莱茵河流入该地区的酒吧和啤酒馆，在那里装满了来自“旧德国”的移民。在这幅生动的画面中，