Meat and, less so, dairy are contested for their significant ethical and social‐ecological impacts. Abjuring animal products, veganism is conventionally treated as a dietary ideology related to consumer identities. Drawing upon practice and materialist turns, this article explores variations in the performance of veganism and how its boundaries are drawn. Yet, rather than an eating practice, I suggest to look at veganism more broadly and conceptualised as a food practice which also involves provisioning. By example of stockfree organic agriculture (SOA), a production‐based, processual understanding is outlined by which plant foods are ‘vegan’ if animal by‐products are not used as fertilisers in crop cultivation. Thereof, a conceptual case is made to shift the focus away from veganism as a consumer identity and towards performative vegan food practices (VFP) as a global responsibility to reduce the ‘long shadow’ of livestock and maintain Earth as a relatively safe operating space.

中文翻译：

---

重要的食物：边界工作和纯素食实践的案例

肉类和奶制品业在道德和社会生态方面都具有重大影响，因此备受争议。对于动物产品，素食主义者通常被视为与消费者身份相关的饮食意识形态。借鉴实践和唯物主义的转折，本文探讨了素食主义的表现及其边界的描绘方法。然而，而不是吃的做法，我建议看看素食主义更广泛和概念化为食的做法也涉及到供应。以无库存有机农业（SOA）为例，概述了基于生产的过程性理解，即如果不将动物副产品用作作物种植的肥料，则哪些植物食品是“素食主义者”。因此，提出了一个概念上的案例来将焦点从纯素转向ism作为消费者的身份，并以表演性纯素食食品实践（VFP）为全球责任，以减少牲畜的“长影子”并将地球保持为相对安全的经营空间。