Focusing on a one-minute ‘fashion film’ by the Dutch fashion designer Alexander van Slobbe for the retrospective exhibition on his work in Utrecht’s Centraal Museum in 2010, this article investigates the interconnectedness of film and fashion through their mutual concern with the processes of crafting and dressing. A close reading of Van Slobbe’s film highlights a current return to a minimal design aesthetic in both fashion and film that shows fashion as a process or as a ‘manual’ operation. This film goes beyond the portrait of a fashion designer, becoming a meditation on the material practice of designing, crafting and viewing. That practice involves an intimacy with materiality constituting the fashion garment as a material, crafted and dynamic sartorial object that requires an axial positionality stemming from horizontal closeness. Ultimately, this article presents horizontality as being part of the experience of both moving images and fashion as a material object. The aim is thus to reflect on what is termed ubiquitous ‘screenic fashion’ (as a peculiar affinity between fashion and screen) by considering an alignment of horizontality and materiality as related to a current and vivid concern in the field of fashion and clothes-making.

中文翻译：

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屏幕时尚：水平性，最小的物质性和手动操作

2010 年，荷兰时装设计师亚历山大·范·斯洛布 (Alexander van Slobbe) 在乌得勒支中央博物馆 (Utrecht's Centraal Museum) 的作品回顾展上拍摄了一部一分钟的“时尚电影”，本文通过电影和时尚对制作过程的相互关注，探讨了电影和时尚之间的相互联系和穿衣。仔细阅读 Van Slobbe 的电影，可以看出当前时尚和电影都回归极简设计美学，将时尚展示为一个过程或“手动”操作。这部电影超越了时装设计师的肖像，成为对设计、制作和观看的物质实践的沉思。这种做法涉及与物质的亲密关系，构成时尚服装作为一种物质、精心制作和动态的裁缝对象，需要源于水平接近的轴向位置。最终，本文将水平性作为运动图像和时尚作为物质对象的体验的一部分。因此，目的是通过考虑与时尚和服装制作领域当前和生动的关注相关的水平性和物质性的对齐，来反思所谓的无处不在的“屏幕时尚”（作为时尚和屏幕之间的特殊亲和力） .