Studies in masculinity have lagged behind in the field of gender studies though recent scholarship is making up for this disparity. In this paper, we tackle the question of masculinity and modernity in early modern Iceland through an analysis of archaeological material relating to dress from the site of an Icelandic bishopric and school, Skálholt, during the late 17th and 18th centuries. We explore both the symbolic and performative dimensions of dress in relation to masculinity as it is traversed by other facets of identity including status, nationalism, and calling. An important focus of our study is to unravel the subtle negotiations that are evident in dress and linked to the performative construction of different and sometimes competing masculinities. Tensions between Lutheran ideals, nationalistic pride in homespun and elite status, and more generally between clerical and nonclerical masculinities can all be seen in the way dress and dress accessories are made to work.

中文翻译：

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黑人男子：在17世纪和18世纪的冰岛表演男性气质

尽管最近的研究弥补了这种差距，但在性别研究领域，男性气质的研究却落后了。在本文中，我们通过分析17世纪末和18世纪末冰岛主教和学校Skálholt的着装相关的考古材料，解决了现代冰岛早期的男性气质和现代性问题。我们探讨了与男性气质相关的着装的象征性和表演性维度，因为它受到身份，身份，民族主义和呼唤等其他方面的影响。我们研究的一个重要重点是解开衣着上很明显的微妙的谈判，这些谈判与不同的，有时甚至是竞争的男性气概的表现结构有关。路德宗理想之间的紧张关系，民族主义对土布和精英地位的骄傲，