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The smell of Shōwa: Time, materiality and regimes of value in Japan’s second-hand kimono industry
Journal of Material Culture ( IF 0.9 ) Pub Date : 2020-01-09 , DOI: 10.1177/1359183519894010
Julie Valk 1
Affiliation  

This article maps the way second-hand kimono pass between different regimes of value as they move out of people’s homes and into second-hand shops. Joining recent calls for a greater anthropological focus on the processes of divestment and disposal, the author highlights how kimono move from the inalienable space of the domestic sphere and into the alienable domain of retail, and considers how their materiality – worn fabrics, dated aesthetics and musty smell – is an active agent in the transformation of value. When initially purchased, the symbolic and economic values of kimono are congruent. But with the passage of time and the deterioration of materials and fraying of kinship bonds, the value of kimono as treasured family possessions is diminished. Yet the very materiality that caused their loss of economic and symbolic value, their undesirable smells, colours and designs can cause them to enter a new regime of value as vintage fashion supported by fashion magazines. By rethinking Arjun Appadurai’s regimes of value with a greater focus on material properties and qualities, this article aims to link cycles of divestment and consumption practices with the generation, loss and re-creation of value.



中文翻译:

昭和的味道:日本二手和服产业的时间,物质和价值体系

本文描绘了二手和服在人们离开家园进入二手店时在不同的价值体系之间传递的方式。在最近呼吁将人类学更多地放在撤资和处置过程上的同时,作者强调了和服如何从家庭领域不可分割的空间转移到零售的异化领域,并考虑了和服的材质-磨损的面料,陈旧的美学和发霉的气味–是价值转换的积极因素。最初购买时,和服的象征意义和经济价值是一致的。但是,随着时间的流逝,材料的恶化以及亲戚关系的磨损,和服作为珍贵的家庭财产的价值正在下降。然而,正是由于物质上的原因,他们才失去了经济和象征价值,它们的不良气味,颜色和设计会使它们进入新的价值体系,成为时尚杂志所支持的老式服装。通过重新思考阿琼·阿帕杜赖(Arjun Appadurai)的价值制度,并更加注重物质特性和品质,本文旨在将撤资和消费实践的周期与价值的产生,损失和再创造联系起来。

更新日期:2020-01-09
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