In recent years, fully fashioned flat knitting fabrics have been extensively studied owing to their superior formability, rich application range and advanced knitting technology. However, the yarn tension fluctuations during the knitting process are difficult to control. The yarn tension in the knitting process is affected by many factors, such as the carriage running speed, structure, yarn properties, clothing parameters, and so on. In this work, a tension model of the yarn was established to explore the regularity of yarn tension variation, which was caused by the running speed and direction of the carriage when producing fully fashioned fabrics. Then, a tension compensation device was set up to reduce tension fluctuations to improve the quality of fully fashioned fabrics. Results showed that the tension fluctuation in the dynamic change of the tension was reduced to a certain extent by adding the tension compensation device. Meanwhile, the average value and fluctuating standard deviation of the yarn tension between the forward and backward processes were significantly reduced during a cycle of the knitting process. This indicates that controlling the tension fluctuation in the knitting process will effectively improve the surface evenness of the fully fashioned flat knitting fabric.

近年来，由于其优异的可成型性，丰富的应用范围和先进的针织技术，对全功能的横机织物进行了广泛的研究。但是，针织过程中的纱线张力波动难以控制。针织过程中的纱线张力受许多因素影响，例如滑架的运行速度，结构，纱线性能，衣着参数等。在这项工作中，建立了纱线的张力模型，以研究纱线张力变化的规律性，这是由生产完整服装面料时车架的运行速度和方向所引起的。然后，建立了张力补偿装置以减少张力波动，从而提高了成品面料的质量。结果表明，通过增加张力补偿装置，可以使张力动态变化中的张力波动减小到一定程度。同时，在编织过程的周期中，前后过程之间的纱线张力的平均值和波动标准偏差显着减小。这表明在针织过程中控制张力波动将有效地改善完全成型的平针织物的表面均匀性。