Within France, the Languedoc‐Roussillon region (now part of Occitanie) is home to about one third of the nation's area of certified organic vineyards. Each year, the world's largest organic wine fair, Millésime Bio, takes place in the city of Montpellier. This trade fair is an important site where organic wine is not only sold but also given meaning in the market, and importantly, differentiated from but made commensurate with conventional wine. In this paper, we examine processes and practices of ‘qualifying’ organic wine, including by means of relational processes of association and dissociation. Drawing on collaborative event ethnography and other qualitative methods, we focus on individual and institutional actors engaged in creating forms of commodified meanings that circulate with organic wine. In Languedoc‐Roussillon, these meanings reflect and reinforce a longer‐term so‐called shift to quality in wine production, yet also emphasize continuity over change, particularly through emphasis on ongoing role of artisanal, independent growers. We argue that qualification thereby works not only through association with independent growers but also by dissociation, specifically from Languedoc‐Roussillon's agrarian tradition of generic wine production and from the central role played by wine cooperatives in the social reproduction of the region's small‐holding grower class.

中文翻译：

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符合资格的传统：法国朗格多克-鲁西永（Languedoc-Roussillon）有机葡萄酒市场建立的实践经验

在法国境内，朗格多克-鲁西永（Languedoc-Roussillon）地区（现已成为Occitanie的一部分）是该国认证有机葡萄园面积的三分之一。每年，世界最大的有机葡萄酒博览会MillésimeBio都会在蒙彼利埃市举行。这个贸易展览会是一个重要的场所，不仅出售有机葡萄酒，而且在市场上具有一定的意义，重要的是，它与传统葡萄酒有所区别，但与传统葡萄酒相称。在本文中，我们研究了“合格”有机葡萄酒的过程和实践，包括通过关联和分离的关系过程。利用协作事件民族志和其他定性方法，我们关注于个人和机构参与者，他们致力于创造形式化的含义，这些含义随着有机葡萄酒而传播。在朗格多克－鲁西永，这些含义反映并加强了葡萄酒生产中所谓的向质量的长期转变，但也强调了变革的连续性，特别是强调了手工，独立种植者的持续作用。我们认为，资格不仅通过与独立种植者的联系而起作用，而且也通过解离而起作用，特别是源于朗格多克-鲁西永的传统葡萄酒生产的农业传统，以及葡萄酒合作社在该地区小规模种植者阶级的社会再生产中所发挥的核心作用。