Abstract

The appearance of the hair interferes with people's self-esteem and may indicate characteristics about their lifestyle. Due to their importance, hair treatment cosmetics correspond to a significant portion of the sector's sales. This research aimed to develop and characterize highly structured conditioners, prepared with avocado, wheat germ and grape seeds oils. The formulations were developed through a ternary phase diagram, using cationic surfactant (cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride), oily phase (mineral or vegetable oils) and aqueous phase. The formulations obtained were classified according to their aspect and viscosity, with the most appropriate ones chosen for the intended use. They were evaluated by polarized light microscopy (PLM) to verify the structure of the system and, also, by means of rheology, small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and sun protection factor (SPF) determination. After the classification of the formulations, the opaque and uniform ones, with intermediate viscosity, compatible with the application on the hair were chosen, guaranteeing acceptance by possible consumers. PLM offered images indicative of highly structured systems, confirmed by the SAXS technique. Rheology indicated that the use of vegetable oils, compared to mineral oil, generated formulations with slightly lower viscosity, allowing the choice of the formulation (12, of the ternary diagram) with higher viscosity among the others. Finally, the determination of the SPF did not indicate the ability to protect against ultraviolet radiation. Thus, in this study, a highly structured formulation, prepared with cationic surfactant and vegetable oils was developed, offering another possibility of an innovative product to consumers of hair cosmetics.

摘要

头发的外观会影响人们的自尊心，并可能表明他们的生活方式特征。由于它们的重要性，头发护理化妆品占该行业销售额的很大一部分。这项研究旨在开发和表征由鳄梨、小麦胚芽和葡萄籽油制备的高度结构化的调理剂。通过使用阳离子表面活性剂（十六烷基三甲基氯化铵）、油相（矿物油或植物油）和水相的三元相图开发配方。获得的配方根据其外观和粘度进行分类，选择最适合预期用途的配方。通过偏光显微镜 (PLM) 对它们进行评估，以验证系统的结构，并且还通过流变学，小角 X 射线散射 (SAXS) 和防晒系数 (SPF) 测定。在对配方进行分类后，选择了不透明且均匀的配方，具有中等粘度，与头发上的应用相容，保证了可能的消费者的接受。PLM 提供的图像表示高度结构化的系统，已通过 SAXS 技术得到证实。流变学表明，与矿物油相比，使用植物油产生的配方粘度略低，因此可以选择粘度更高的配方（三元图的 12）。最后，SPF 的测定并未表明其具有防止紫外线辐射的能力。因此，在本研究中，开发了一种由阳离子表面活性剂和植物油制备的高度结构化的配方，