Purpose

This study investigated changes in appearance due to variations in the amount of ease allowance at the bust, waist and hips with ready-made women's shirts in two different styles. The authors also examined the suitable range for ease allowance with those two styles using a sensory test for evaluating appearance.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors employed two women's shirts (samples I and II) in different styles (fit and straight). The authors modified the size of the bust, waist and hips with a changeable-size dress form using 1-cm intervals. The authors observed the shape changes. With the pictures at 2-cm intervals, the authors conducted a sensory test to evaluate appearance. 20 Japanese university students in their 20s made their assessments using seven items (wrinkles, fit, silhouette, beauty, fashionable impression, comfort and purchase intention) with a five-point scale. The proportion of subjects who scored 1 or more was 40% or greater when using ease allowance in the suitable range.

Findings

The appropriate ranges of ease allowance differed according to the style and evaluation items. Regarding appearance and purchase intention with sample I from the front, the suitable range of ease allowance was 1–7 cm for the bust, 2–6 cm for the hips and 13 cm for the waist. From the side, the range was 0–6 cm for the hips and 7 cm for the bust. With sample II from the front, the suitable range of ease allowance was about 4 cm for all parts. From the side, the range was 11 cm for the bust and 4 cm for the hips.

Originality/value

Using a dress form, the authors determined suitable ranges of ease allowance for two women's shirts in fit and straight styles with seven bust, six waist and six hip sizes. The authors found that the suitable range of ease allowance varied according to the style, direction and parts of the shirt. Our results can act as a guideline for designing and selecting ease allowance for women's shirts, taking into account comfort from appearance, purchase intention and beauty.

中文翻译：

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宽松度的合适范围，以适合合身和直筒款式的女式衬衫

目的

这项研究调查了两种现成风格的女士衬衫在胸围，腰部和臀部的宽松程度的差异所导致的外观变化。作者还使用感官测试来评估外观，检查了这两种样式的宽松程度的合适范围。

设计/方法/方法

作者聘用了两种风格（合身和笔直）的女式衬衫（样品I和II）。作者使用1厘米间隔的可变大小的着装形式修改了胸围，腰部和臀部的大小。作者观察了形状的变化。作者将照片间隔为2厘米，进行了感官测试以评估外观。20多岁的20名日本大学生使用5分制的7个项目（皱纹，健美，轮廓，美丽，时尚印象，舒适度和购买意愿）进行了评估。当在适当范围内使用放松津贴时，得分为1或更高的受试者比例为40％或更高。

发现

根据样式和评价项目的不同，安心津贴的适当范围也有所不同。关于外观和购买意愿（从正面看），合适的宽松度范围是：胸围1–7 cm，臀部2–6 cm，腰部13 cm。从侧面看，臀部的范围是0–6 cm，胸部的范围是7 cm。对于正面的样品II，所有零件的合适裕度范围约为4厘米。从侧面看，胸围的范围是11厘米，髋部的范围是4厘米。

创意/价值

作者使用着装形式，确定了适合的直筒款式的两件女式衬衫的合适宽松度范围，这两件衬衫的胸围为七个，胸围为六个，腰围为六个，臀围为六个。作者发现，宽松津贴的合适范围会根据衬衫的款式，方向和部位而有所不同。我们的结果可以作为设计和选择女士衬衫宽松度的准则，同时考虑到外观，购买意图和美观方面的舒适性。