In this study, a physics-based morphology model is developed and to test the feasibility of the morphology model proposed in this study as the platform for the optimal design of the beach nourishment project, the beach restoration process by the infra-gravity waves underlying the swells in a mild sea is numerically simulated. As a hydrodynamic module, the IHFOAM wave toolbox having its roots in the OpenFoam is used. Speaking of the morphology model, a transport equation for suspended load and the Exner type equation constitute the morphology model. In doing so, the probability theory first introduced by Einstein and the physical model test by Bagnold are used as the constituent sub-model of the morphology model. Numerical results show that among many flow features that are indispensable in forming sand bars over the flat bottom and swash zone, the partially skewed and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses, a shoreward Stokes drift near the free surface, boundary layer streaming near the seabed, and undertow toward the offshore were successfully simulated using the morphology model proposed in this study. It was also shown that plunging type breaker occurring at the final stage of the shoaling process, and its accompanying second breaker, sediment entrainment at the seabed, and the redistribution of suspended load by the down rush of preceding waves were successfully reproduced in the numerical simulation, and agreements with our experience in the field were very encouraging. In particular, the sand bar formation process over the flat bottom and backshore were successfully reproduced in the numerical simulation, which has been regarded as a challenging task.

中文翻译：

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基于物理学的形态学模型开发为海滩营养项目的最佳设计提供了平台：一个数值研究

在这项研究中，建立了一个基于物理学的形态学模型，并测试了该研究中提出的形态学模型的可行性，该模型可作为海滩营养项目的最佳设计平台，海滩下方的重力波对海滩的修复过程的平台。在温和的海浪中进行了数值模拟。作为流体动力模块，使用了以OpenFoam为根的IHFOAM波动工具箱。说到形态模型，悬浮载荷的运输方程和Exner型方程构成了形态模型。为此，爱因斯坦首先提出的概率论和巴格诺德的物理模型检验被用作形态模型的组成子模型。数值结果表明，在平坦底部和斜流带上形成沙洲时，许多不可缺少的流动特征中，使用本文提出的形态学模型成功地模拟了部分偏斜和不对称的底部剪应力，自由表面附近的向岸斯托克斯漂移，海床附近的边界层流以及向近海的拖曳。还表明，在数值模拟中成功地再现了在浅滩形成过程的最后阶段发生的俯冲式破碎机及其伴随的第二破碎机，海床的泥沙夹带以及前浪的向下冲撞对悬浮载荷的重新分配。 ，并且根据我们在该领域的经验达成的协议非常令人鼓舞。特别是，在数值模拟中成功地再现了平坦底部和后岸的沙洲形成过程，这被认为是一项艰巨的任务。