ABSTRACT This paper presents the results of numerical study on the wave-induced currents and morphology changes due to the complicated interaction between waves and a sandy beach with shore-parallel breakwaters set on. The study was based on the SWASH wave model coupled with a sediment transport model developed in this research. The simulated results of the coupling model were compared with the published laboratory experimental data. The good agreements were obtained for both wave-induced currents and formation of salient and tombolo behind breakwaters. The models were also applied for studying the evolution of wave-induced currents associated with topography changes of a sandy beach. The wave-induced currents and sediment transport processes have a strong relationship and their interaction could reach a quasi-equilibrium state in which the changes of current pattern and bathymetry become very slow. Numerical results of shoreline response mode were also compared with a published empirical formula and confirmed good agreements.

中文翻译：

---

使用泥沙输运模型结合 SWASH 模型对波浪作用下近海防波堤后面近岸水动力和形态变化的数值研究

摘要 本文介绍了由于波浪与设置有与岸平行的防波堤的沙滩之间复杂的相互作用而引起的波浪感应电流和形态变化的数值研究结果。该研究基于 SWASH 波模型以及在本研究中开发的沉积物输送模型。耦合模型的模拟结果与已发表的实验室实验数据进行了比较。对于波浪感应电流和防波堤后面的突出和连片的形成都获得了良好的一致性。这些模型还用于研究与沙滩地形变化相关的波浪感应电流的演变。波浪诱导流与泥沙输移过程有很强的关系，它们的相互作用可以达到一种准平衡状态，在这种状态下，流型和水深变化变得非常缓慢。海岸线响应模式的数值结果也与公布的经验公式进行了比较，并确认了良好的一致性。