Abstract A large body of work has been devoted to the accurate detection and simulation of wave breaking in coastal areas. It is a key process for a wide range of engineering activities and environmental issues. This has motivated the development of a variety of breaking onset criteria, such as kinematic criteria based on a maximum value (usually unity) of the ratio u c / c , of the horizontal particle velocity at the wave crest u c to its phase velocity c, both taken in the direction of wave propagation. Here, we investigate numerically the validity of this criterion in capturing breaking onset for solitary and quasi-regular two-dimensional shallow water waves using the Fully Nonlinear Potential Flow (FNPF) model by Grilli and Subramanya (1996). With this model, the propagation up to overturning of solitary waves over plane slopes, and solitary and quasi-regular waves over a submerged bar, both initially specified as numerically exact FNPF waves, is simulated. In all cases, waves break as spilling or plunging breakers, initiated by the formation of a breaker jet near the wave crest. Results show that the location of the maximum fluid velocity | | u | | m on the free surface closely coincides with the location where the overturning jet is initiated. Based on this, a new breaking onset criterion is proposed as | | u | | m / c ≃ 1 , which is shown to be more universal for accurately detecting wave breaking initiation than existing criteria based on the crest velocity.

中文翻译：

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在浅水中用孤立波和准规则波验证的运动断裂起始准则的新定义

摘要 大量工作致力于沿海地区波浪破碎的准确检测和模拟。它是解决各种工程活动和环境问题的关键过程。这促使开发了各种破碎起始标准，例如基于波峰水平粒子速度 uc 与其相速度 c 之比 uc / c 的最大值（通常为单位）的运动学标准，两者均取波的传播方向。在这里，我们使用 Grilli 和 Subramanya (1996) 的完全非线性势流 (FNPF) 模型从数值上研究了该标准在捕获孤立和准规则二维浅水波的破裂开始时的有效性。有了这个模型，孤立波在平面斜坡上的传播直到倾覆，并且模拟了淹没杆上的孤立波和准规则波，两者最初都指定为数值精确的 FNPF 波。在所有情况下，波浪破裂为溢出或下沉的碎波，由波峰附近的碎波喷射形成引发。结果表明，最大流体速度的位置| | 你| | 自由表面上的 m 与引发倾覆射流的位置紧密重合。在此基础上，提出了一种新的突破起始准则为| | 你| | m / c ≃ 1 ，与基于波峰速度的现有标准相比，它被证明在准确检测破浪起始方面更通用。由波峰附近形成的破碎射流引发。结果表明，最大流体速度的位置| | 你| | 自由表面上的 m 与引发倾覆射流的位置紧密重合。在此基础上，提出了一种新的突破起始准则为| | 你| | m / c ≃ 1 ，与基于波峰速度的现有标准相比，它被证明在准确检测破浪起始方面更通用。由波峰附近形成的破碎射流引发。结果表明，最大流体速度的位置| | 你| | 自由表面上的 m 与引发倾覆射流的位置紧密重合。在此基础上，提出了一种新的突破起始准则为| | 你| | m / c ≃ 1 ，与基于波峰速度的现有标准相比，它被证明在准确检测破浪起始方面更通用。