ABSTRACT A post-event survey of an extreme swell was conducted along the south coast of Java, Indonesia, where swells in the high wave season are likely to intensify in the long term. The measured runup heights varied from 4 to 6 m along the long straight coastline, which were comparable to those observed during the 2006 Pangandaran earthquake tsunami. The damage to the coastal communities was, however, found to be of a minor to moderate level as coastal inundation was confined to a narrow strip on the shore due to the steep subaerial topography of the coastal areas. The characteristics of the extreme swell event were analyzed using the long-term wave reanalysis dataset created by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). The results suggested that the extreme event was the highest one over the past 40 years, whose return period is approximately 100 years even though the long-term increasing trend was taken into account. Through a cross-correlation analysis of the wave data, the primary swell source area was identified in the extra-tropical region of the southern Indian Ocean, where strong westerlies developed energetic swells.

中文翻译：

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加剧的涌浪及其对印度尼西亚爪哇南部海岸的影响

摘要 对印度尼西亚爪哇南部海岸的一次极端涌浪进行了事后调查，从长远来看，高浪季节的涌浪可能会加剧。沿长而直的海岸线测量的爬升高度从 4 米到 6 米不等，这与 2006 年潘甘达兰地震海啸期间观测到的高度相当。然而，由于沿海地区陡峭的地下地形，沿海淹没仅限于海岸的狭窄地带，因此发现对沿海社区的破坏是轻微到中度的。使用欧洲中期天气预报中心 (ECMWF) 创建的长期波浪再分析数据集分析了极端涌浪事件的特征。结果表明，极端事件是过去 40 年来最高的一次，即使考虑到长期增长趋势，其重现期也约为 100 年。通过波浪数据的互相关分析，在南印度洋的温带地区确定了主要的涌浪源区，在那里强大的西风带发展了高能涌浪。