ABSTRACT Sunscreen formulations have been developed to provide an artificial protective barrier against the deleterious effects of overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation in humans. Ultrafast pump-probe spectroscopy techniques have been an invaluable tool in recent years for determining the photochemistry of active ingredients in sunscreen formulations, predominantly UV filters, in both the gas- and solution-phases. These measurements have enabled the elucidation of molecular relaxation pathways and photoprotection mechanisms, which are in turn insightful for assessing a filter's photostability and suitability for sunscreen use. In this review, we discuss the benefits of a bottom-up approach: the progression from the study of UV filters for sunscreens in vacuum, away from the influences of any solvent; in solution, to investigate the relaxation pathways of potential sunscreen filters in closer to real-life conditions, whilst exploring the merits of selective functionalisation to improve their characteristics; and beyond, to current advances that are mimicking the application of sunscreen formulations to the surface of the skin.

中文翻译：

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超快光谱在防晒霜开发中的应用，从基本原理到复杂混合物

摘要 防晒剂配方已被开发用于提供一种人工保护屏障，以防止人类过度暴露于紫外线 (UV) 辐射的有害影响。近年来，超快泵浦探针光谱技术已成为确定防晒配方中活性成分（主要是紫外线过滤剂）的气相和液相光化学的宝贵工具。这些测量有助于阐明分子松弛途径和光保护机制，这反过来又有助于评估过滤器的光稳定性和防晒霜使用的适用性。在这篇评论中，我们讨论了自下而上方法的好处：从研究真空中防晒霜的紫外线过滤剂开始，远离任何溶剂的影响；在解决方案中，在更接近现实生活的条件下研究潜在防晒过滤器的松弛途径，同时探索选择性功能化以改善其特性的优点；以及更多，目前的进展模仿防晒配方在皮肤表面的应用。