Abstract

Experimental data demonstrate dependence of wave breaking type on wave amplitude-frequency-phase structure that is determined by nonlinear wave transformation. The spilling and plunging breaking waves are differed in the symmetry of the wave profile and the ratio of the amplitudes of the 1st and 2nd harmonics in breaking wave. The wave profile symmetry, in turn, is determined by the phase shift between these harmonics. In spilling breaking waves, it is close to zero, which corresponds to symmetrical waves. In plunging breaking waves, the phase shift is negative, which corresponds to the forward shifted 2nd harmonic. The ratio of the amplitudes of the 1st and 2nd harmonics in spilling breaking waves is less than that in plunging breaking waves. The periodic energy exchange between harmonics during near resonant triad wave interactions is the reason for the change in the types of wave breaking for waves propagating above a gentle inclined bottom. Due to the different structure, plunging breaking waves contribute to the erosion of the cross-shore underwater profile, while spilling breaking waves contribute to the accumulation of sand on it.

中文翻译：

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破波类型是沿海地区非线性波变换阶段的典型标志

摘要

实验数据表明，破波类型对由非线性波变换确定的波振幅-频率-相位结构的依赖性。溢出和下降的中断波在波形上的对称性以及中断波中一次谐波和二次谐波的振幅比不同。波形轮廓的对称性又取决于这些谐波之间的相移。在溢出破碎波时，它接近零，这对应于对称波。在突然的破碎波中，相移为负，这对应于前移的二次谐波。爆发波中的一次谐波和二次谐波的振幅比小于突波时的振幅。在近共振三重波相互作用期间，谐波之间的周期性能量交换是导致在平缓倾斜底部上方传播的波的破坏类型改变的原因。由于结构不同，突入的破碎波会侵蚀跨岸水下剖面，而溅出的破碎波会导致沙粒堆积在其上。