The critical role of diet in climate change mitigation has raised behavioural approaches to the top of the agenda. In this paper, the authors take a critical look at these behavioural approaches and call for a more dynamic, practice-oriented understanding of long-term changes in sustainable food consumption and supply.,This approach is based on the experiences from a long-term experiment promoting sustainable eating in a workplace lunch restaurant using a series of informational and nudging techniques. In the experiment, the authors found that focussing solely on eating behaviours did not help to capture the multi-level change processes mobilised. The authors therefore propose a more dynamic, practice-oriented methodology for examining long-term changes in sustainable eating. The emprical data of the experiment are based on qualitative and quantitative data, consisting of customer survey, customer and kitchen personnel focus group discussions and monitoring data on the use of food items in the restaurant and their climate impacts.,The results draw attention to a series of practical challenges restaurants face when promoting sustainable eating. Directing analytical attention to tinkering helped to reveal the tensions brought about by labelling and nudging in menu planning and recipe development. The results show how tinkering required attentiveness to customers' wishes in both cases. Nudging offered more freedom for the restaurant to develop menus and recipes. In the case scrutinised, however, nudging customers towards tastier and more satiating vegetarian dishes included the use of dairy. This partly watered down the climate benefits gained from reduced meat consumption.,Rather than looking separately at changes in consumer behaviour and in the supply of food, the authors show how we need analytical concepts that enable the evaluation of their mutual evolution. Tinkering can assist us in this endeavour. Its adaptive, adjustive character, however, calls for caution. The development of praxis in food services and catering requires critical companions from the transdisciplinary research community. Research can provide systematic knowledge on the impacts of labels and nudges on kitchen praxis. However, research itself also needs to tinker and learn from experiments. This necessitates long-term speculative research strategies.

中文翻译：

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从孤立的标签和推动到持续的修补：评估午餐餐厅可持续饮食的长期变化

饮食在减缓气候变化中的关键作用已将行为方法提升到议程的首位。在本文中，作者对这些行为方法进行了批判性研究，并呼吁对可持续食品消费和供应的长期变化进行更加动态的、以实践为导向的理解。,这种方法基于长期的经验使用一系列信息和轻推技术在工作场所午餐餐厅促进可持续饮食的实验。在实验中，作者发现仅关注饮食行为无助于捕捉动员的多层次变化过程。因此，作者提出了一种更加动态、以实践为导向的方法，用于检查可持续饮食的长期变化。实验的实证数据基于定性和定量数据，包括顾客调查、顾客和厨房人员焦点小组讨论以及餐厅食品使用及其气候影响的监测数据。,结果提请注意一个餐厅在推广可持续饮食时面临的一系列实际挑战。将分析注意力集中在修补上有助于揭示菜单规划和食谱开发中的标签和轻推所带来的紧张局势。结果表明，在这两种情况下，修补都需要关注客户的意愿。轻推为餐厅提供了更多的自由来开发菜单和食谱。然而，在仔细审查的情况下，促使顾客选择更美味、更令人满意的素食菜肴包括使用乳制品。这在一定程度上淡化了减少肉类消费带来的气候效益。作者没有分别关注消费者行为和食物供应的变化，而是展示了我们如何需要分析概念来评估它们的相互演变。修补可以帮助我们完成这项工作。然而，它的适应性和适应性特征需要谨慎。食品服务和餐饮实践的发展需要来自跨学科研究界的重要伙伴。研究可以提供关于标签和轻推对厨房实践的影响的系统知识。然而，研究本身也需要修补和从实验中学习。这需要长期的投机研究策略。作者没有分别关注消费者行为和食品供应的变化，而是展示了我们如何需要分析概念来评估它们的相互演变。修补可以帮助我们完成这项工作。然而，它的适应性和适应性特征需要谨慎。食品服务和餐饮实践的发展需要来自跨学科研究界的重要伙伴。研究可以提供关于标签和轻推对厨房实践的影响的系统知识。然而，研究本身也需要修补和从实验中学习。这需要长期的投机研究策略。作者没有分别关注消费者行为和食品供应的变化，而是展示了我们如何需要分析概念来评估它们的相互演变。修补可以帮助我们完成这项工作。然而，它的适应性和适应性特征需要谨慎。食品服务和餐饮实践的发展需要来自跨学科研究界的重要伙伴。研究可以提供关于标签和轻推对厨房实践的影响的系统知识。然而，研究本身也需要修补和从实验中学习。这需要长期的投机研究策略。然而，调整性特征需要谨慎。食品服务和餐饮实践的发展需要来自跨学科研究界的重要伙伴。研究可以提供关于标签和轻推对厨房实践的影响的系统知识。然而，研究本身也需要修补和从实验中学习。这需要长期的投机研究策略。然而，调整性特征需要谨慎。食品服务和餐饮实践的发展需要来自跨学科研究界的重要伙伴。研究可以提供关于标签和轻推对厨房实践的影响的系统知识。然而，研究本身也需要修补和从实验中学习。这需要长期的投机研究策略。