A competent coastal engineer should have adequate knowledge with regard to wave analysis. Long-term analysis is being effectively used worldwide to predict wave heights based on extreme wave statistics. The objective here is to analyze the ocean waves off Mangaluru coast, India. Long-term analysis is initially performed based on probability distributions like Log-normal distribution, Gumbel distribution, Fretchet distribution, Exponential distribution, and Weibull distributions on the in-situ wave data recorded at coastal waters off Mangaluru coast. The Extreme wave analysis is performed based on Peak Over Threshold method from which the best-fit probability distribution is obtained. Further, the best performing distribution is applied on the simulated wave heights obtained from MIKE 21 numerical model forced with ERA-interim wind speed data of 38-years. From the analysis, amongst the five different distributions considered Weibull distribution with α = 1.3 gave the best-fit for the wave dataset considered. Long-term analysis is then performed on 38-years hindcast data for 10, 50 and 100 year return periods for the Mangaluru coast region.

中文翻译：

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曼加罗尔海岸海浪的长期分析

合格的沿海工程师应具有足够的波浪分析知识。长期分析已在全球范围内有效地用于基于极端波浪统计信息预测波浪高度。此处的目的是分析印度芒格鲁尔海岸附近的海浪。最初，根据对数正态分布，Gumbel分布，Fretchet分布，指数分布和Weibull分布的概率分布，对在Mangaluru海岸近海记录的原位波数据进行了长期分析。基于Peak Over Threshold方法执行极限波分析，从而获得最佳拟合概率分布。进一步，最佳性能分布应用于从MIKE 21数值模型获得的模拟波浪高度，该数值模型是通过38年的ERA临时风速数据强迫得出的。通过分析，在考虑的五个不同分布中，α= 1.3的威布尔分布为所考虑的波浪数据集提供了最佳拟合。然后对Mangaluru海岸地区10年，50年和100年回归期的38年后预报数据进行了长期分析。