The apparel industry is replete with assumptions regarding the body-garment relationship. Traditional anthropometry focuses on linear body measurements, which are inadequate to describe and classify the human body-form for apparel pattern development. To enable the development of a body-form based block system, this case study explored the body-garment relationship for a sheath dress to determine if apparel block shapes could be categorized based on distinct body-form variations. A modified version of Gazzuolo’s (1985) body-garment relationship theory guided the development and analysis of the study. Pattern blocks were fit to 39 female subjects, with 16 dimensions extracted from specific pattern components and graphed to reveal between one and five groups per dimension. Visual analysis of the sample’s body scans revealed 27 body-form variations with 99 categorical descriptions. Categorical descriptions were compared to the dimensional values resulting in ten suggestions for a body-form based block system, and seventeen assumptions that require further analysis. In conclusion, this case study discovered multiple body-form variations across a single size, but block shapes could not be identified due to the wide variation in the sample. Future studies should assess a statistically significant sample of individuals with in-depth analysis of a single body region to determine if there are generalizable body-form variations across the population.

中文翻译：

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通过分析一件皮衣来探索服装与服装的关系理论

服装行业充满了关于服装与服装关系的假设。传统的人体测量学着重于线性人体测量，这不足以描述和分类用于服装样式开发的人体形态。为了开发基于体形的块体系统，本案例研究探索了外套连衣裙的服装与服装的关系，以确定是否可以基于不同的体形变化对服装块形进行分类。Gazzuolo（1985）的服装关系理论的修改版指导了这项研究的发展和分析。模式块适用于39位女性受试者，从特定的模式成分中提取了16个维度，并绘制图形以揭示每个维度1至5组。样品的身体扫描结果的视觉分析显示了27种身体形态变异，其中包含99种分类描述。将分类描述与尺寸值进行了比较，得出了基于体形的块系统的十个建议，以及需要进一步分析的十七个假设。总而言之，本案例研究发现了单个尺寸上的多个身体形态变异，但由于样本差异很大，无法识别出块状。未来的研究应通过对单个身体区域进行深入分析来评估具有统计学意义的个体样本，以确定整个人群中是否存在可概括的身体形态变异。十七个需要进一步分析的假设。总而言之，本案例研究发现了单个尺寸上的多个身体形态变异，但是由于样本差异很大，因此无法识别块状。未来的研究应通过对单个身体区域进行深入分析来评估具有统计学意义的个体样本，以确定整个人群中是否存在可概括的身体形态变异。还有十七项需要进一步分析的假设。总而言之，本案例研究发现了单个尺寸上的多个身体形态变异，但由于样本差异很大，无法识别出块状。未来的研究应通过对单个身体部位进行深入分析来评估具有统计学意义的个体样本，以确定整个人群中是否存在可概括的身体形态变异。