Abstract

The accurate knowledge of the location and movement of the sand bars is important for the coastal manager to establish correctly the coastal defence elements. This work applies a numerical model of finite elements based on Galerkin's formulation for predicting the location of the start, crest and end of the outer bar. The model that shows the best results is the one that combines the variables wave height, period and median sediment size. The mean errors are less than 10 m in the distance to the shoreline and 17 cm in the depth, while in the formulations proposed by other authors the errors are more than 100 m in the distance to the shoreline and 2 m in the depth. Thus, the proposed model significantly improves the calculation of the sand bars position. This will allow a better location of the coastal defence elements, and therefore an improvement in their effectiveness and optimisation of the materials to be used in their construction, the key to sustainable coastal management. Furthermore, although the model was developed for the area of Valencia (Spain), the model can be used in any area with similar characteristics (open sandy beach), and the methodology (variables and process) could be applied worldwide.

摘要

准确了解沙洲的位置和运动对于海岸管理者正确建立海岸防御要素非常重要。这项工作应用基于 Galerkin 公式的有限元数值模型来预测外部钢筋的起点、波峰和终点的位置。显示最佳结果的模型是结合了变量波高、周期和中值沉积物尺寸的模型。 距海岸线距离的平均误差小于 10 m， 深度小于17 cm，而在其他作者提出的公式 中，距海岸线距离的误差超过 100 m，深度为 2 米的深度。因此，所提出的模型显着改进了沙坝位置的计算。这将使海岸防御要素的位置更好，从而提高其有效性并优化建造中使用的材料，这是可持续海岸管理的关键。此外，虽然该模型是为巴伦西亚（西班牙）地区开发的，但该模型可用于任何具有相似特征的地区（开阔沙滩），并且该方法（变量和过程）可以在全球范围内应用。