ABSTRACT

In this study, dyeing effects on the physical properties of blended fabrics containing different ratios of wool and mohair fibers were investigated in detail. Six types of fabrics were produced by using 100% wool yarns and 100% mohair yarns separately in either direction with different sequences. Then the fabrics were dyed with a wool reactive dye and physical properties were investigated before and after dyeing process. As a result of the study, wool/mohair blended fabrics could be used in the lightweight suitings since adding mohair in the fabric composition made the fabrics stiffer, less drapeable, more air permeable. Another important finding was that the color yield values of both front and back sides of the 50/50% blended fabrics were found to be quite close. From this point of view, if wool and mohair yarns were used symmetrically in the fabric structure, it would be possible to dye blended fabric uniformly in one bath. Otherwise, in case of weaving fabrics according to various designs using wool and mohair yarns separately in either direction unsymmetrically, two different tones could be obtained on the same fabric, known as a bicolor effect.

摘要

本研究详细研究了染色对不同比例的羊毛和马海毛纤维混纺织物物理性能的影响。使用 100% 羊毛纱和 100% 马海毛纱分别在两个方向以不同的顺序生产六种类型的织物。然后用羊毛活性染料对织物进行染色，并研究染色前后的物理性能。研究结果表明，羊毛/马海毛混纺织物可用于轻质西装，因为在织物成分中添加马海毛可使织物更硬、更不悬垂、更透气。另一个重要发现是，发现 50/50% 混纺织物的正面和背面的颜色屈服值非常接近。从这个角度来看，如果在织物结构中对称地使用羊毛和马海毛纱线，则可以在一个浴池中均匀地染色混纺织物。否则，在根据不同设计编织织物的情况下，分别在任一方向不对称地使用羊毛和马海毛纱线，可能会在同一织物上获得两种不同的色调，称为双色效果。