Abstract To withstand the local wave climate, coastal structure design relies on our understanding of the wave characteristics at the structure wall and the forces they impose onto the wall. However, despite the vast number of protective structures along our coasts, detailed field observations of waves measured directly at the structure wall are virtually absent. In this study, rare observations of wave characteristics at a vertical wall are presented. Contrary to linear wave theory, results suggest that the standing waves are highly nonlinear. Waves at the wall have considerably larger kurtosis and skewness compared to the incoming wave field and the wave steepness at the wall is observed to exceed the theoretical wave steepness limit of standing waves.

中文翻译：

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垂直壁上的驻波场观测

摘要 为了抵御当地的波浪气候，沿海结构设计依赖于我们对结构壁上的波浪特征及其施加在壁上的力的理解。然而，尽管我们的海岸有大量的保护结构，但几乎没有对直接在结构壁上测量的波浪进行详细的现场观测。在这项研究中，提出了对垂直壁面波浪特征的罕见观察。与线性波理论相反，结果表明驻波是高度非线性的。与入射波场相比，壁上的波具有相当大的峰度和偏度，并且观察到壁上的波陡度超过了驻波的理论波陡度极限。