We asked when and how mobile phones are represented in Vogue (US) and L’Officiel (FR) between 1993 and 2017, and in what sense their presence in such magazines can be understood as making them into fashion items. The question is warranted since these magazines act as critical gatekeepers to fashion, at the same time as it has been argued that the latter is spreading its influence from clothes to other objects. We study the occurrence, changing styles and visual aesthetics of phones through a quantitative and a qualitative analysis. The former shows mobile phones did appear in the magazines, indicating that the important gatekeepers allow these devices to enter the fashion world. The qualitative analysis reveals that the aesthetic representation of mobile phones both conforms to and diverges from how garments are aestheticized in these magazines. The overall picture is one of a fluctuating and heterogeneous relation, with intermittent and temporary interactions between fashion gatekeeping and the digital devices. When carefully studying the interest in displaying the digital objects in these magazines we see a rather limited influence and not a trend.

中文翻译：

---

关于数字设备的时尚化：对时尚杂志中手机的代表性的研究

我们询问了1993年至2017年之间在Vogue（美国）和L'Officiel（法国）中何时以及如何代表移动电话，以及在什么意义上可以将它们出现在此类杂志中被理解为使其成为时尚产品。由于这些杂志是时尚的重要守门人，因此有理由提出这个问题，与此同时，有人认为后者正在将其影响力从衣服传播到其他物品。我们通过定量和定性分析研究电话的出现，样式的变化和视觉美感。前者显示手机确实出现在杂志上，表明重要的网守允许这些设备进入时尚界。定性分析表明，手机的美学表现既符合这些杂志对服装的审美观念，又与之不同。总体情况是一种波动和异质的关系之一，在时装守门员和数字设备之间存在间歇性和暂时性的相互作用。当仔细研究对在这些杂志中显示数字对象的兴趣时，我们看到的影响相当有限，而不是趋势。