Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetration from lipophilic cosmetic formulations through the skin using a porcine ear model and human volunteers. ATR-FTIR/PLS regression and HPLC-PDA-MS were used to analyze anthocyanin permeation through the stratum corneum. Penetration of all anthocyanins was evident and correlated with molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Lower-molecular-weight (MW) anthocyanins from elderberry (449–581 Da) were more permeable within the skin in both ex vivo and in vivo models (K_p = 2.3–2.4 × 10⁻⁴ cm h⁻¹) than the larger anthocyanins (933-1019 Da) from red radish (K_p = 2.0–2.1 × 10⁻⁴ cm h⁻¹). Elderberry and red radish anthocyanins were found at all levels of the stratum corneum and at depths for activity as bioactive ingredients for skin health.

中文翻译：

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利用ATR-FTIR / PLS回归模型和HPLC-PDA-MS对局部应用的花青素的渗透性进行体内和体外评估。

花青素是具有抗氧化性能的天然色素，可抑制光老化反应并减轻某些皮肤疾病的症状。但是，关于它们穿过角质层的渗透知之甚少，角质层是生物活性的先决条件。目的是研究使用猪耳模型和人类志愿者从亲脂化妆品配方中通过皮肤渗透花色苷的方法。ATR-FTIR / PLS回归和HPLC-PDA-MS用于分析花青素在角质层中的渗透。所有花色苷的渗透是明显的，并且与分子量和亲水性相关。在离体和体内模型中，接骨木（449-581 Da）的低分子量（MW）花色苷在皮肤内的渗透性更高（K _p = 2.3-2.4×10 ^-4 cm h^-1）比来自大萝卜的更大的花青素（933-1019 Da）（K _p = 2.0–2.1×10 ^-4 cm h h ^-1）。在角质层的所有水平和深度处都发现了接骨木浆果和红萝卜花色苷，作为皮肤健康的生物活性成分。