Modelling the impact of a time‐varying wave angle on the nonlinear evolution of sand bars in the surf zone,Earth Surface Processes and Landforms

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Modelling the impact of a time‐varying wave angle on the nonlinear evolution of sand bars in the surf zone
Earth Surface Processes and Landforms ( IF 2.8 ) Pub Date : 2020-07-04 , DOI: 10.1002/esp.4916
Abdel Nnafie ₁ , Niek Andel ₁ , Huib Swart ₁

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Sandy beaches are often characterized by the presence of sand bars, whose characteristics (growth, migration, etc.) strongly depend on the wave conditions (wave height, angle of wave incidence, etc.). This study addresses the impact of a periodically time-varying wave angle of incidence with different time-means on the long-term evolution (order days to months) of sand bars. Model results show that heights of sand bars that form in the case of a time-varying angle around a zero-mean are on average larger than those in the cases of time-varying angles around an oblique mean, particularly for large variations in the angle of wave incidence.

中文翻译：

时变波角对冲浪带沙洲非线性演化影响的建模

沙滩通常以存在沙洲为特征，其特征（生长、迁移等）在很大程度上取决于波浪条件（波浪高度、波浪入射角等）。这项研究解决了具有不同时间平均值的周期性时变波入射角对沙洲长期演变（几天到几个月）的影响。模型结果表明，在零均值附近时变角度情况下形成的沙坝高度平均大于倾斜均值周围时变角度情况下形成的沙坝高度，特别是角度变化较大时波入射。

更新日期：2020-07-04

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