ABSTRACT

Nowadays, denim consumers are more interested in esthetic and garment comfort features such as softness, lightweight and smoothness. Coating method is widely used to impart esthetic and functional properties to denim fabrics. It is a known fact that the coating process adversely affects various mechanical and comfort properties of fabrics. This study presents identifying of the optimum levels of the coating process parameters for combination of tear strength and stiffness properties of cotton/elastane blend denim fabrics by Taguchi method (TM) and Grey relational analysis (GRA). Denim fabric samples were coated with a standard paste used for coloring the fabric surfaces by the Rotary Screen Coating Method. The selected parameters are weft density, drying temperature, viscosity of coating fluid, squeeze pressure and fabric passing speed. First, each output was individually optimized by TM, and then all outputs were optimized together taking into account the primacy of the goals by TM and GRA. For all outputs, the most effective parameters were found as the weft density and the fabric passing speed, respectively. Consequently, optimal common combination for multi-performances was found as 14 picks/cm weft density, 160°C drying temperature, 50 dPa.s viscosity, 3 bar squeeze pressure, 30 m/min fabric passing speed.

摘要

如今，牛仔布消费者对柔软、轻便和光滑等美学和服装舒适特性更感兴趣。涂层方法被广泛用于赋予牛仔面料美观和功能特性。众所周知，涂层工艺会对织物的各种机械和舒适性能产生不利影响。本研究提出了通过田口方法 (TM) 和灰色关联分析 (GRA) 确定最佳的涂层工艺参数水平，以结合棉/弹性纤维混纺牛仔布的撕裂强度和刚度性能。牛仔布样品涂有标准浆料，用于通过旋转丝网涂布法对织物表面进行着色。选择的参数是纬密度、干燥温度、涂层液的粘度、挤压压力和织物通过速度。第一的，每个输出都由 TM 单独优化，然后考虑到 TM 和 GRA 目标的首要性，所有输出一起优化。对于所有输出，最有效的参数分别是纬密度和织物通过速度。因此，多种性能的最佳常见组合被发现为 14 纬/cm 纬密度、160°C 干燥温度、50 dPa.s 粘度、3 bar 挤压压力、30 m/min 织物通过速度。