ABSTRACT Longshore and cross-shore currents in the surf zone were observed on a dissipative barred beach for 20 days using a horizontally mounted acoustic-Doppler current profiler (H-ADCP). This novel deployment strategy allowed for the synoptic measurement of the longshore current at approximately mid-depth at several cross-shore locations. The longshore current data were analyzed with wave and tide level data to show the effect of tidal range on the variation of the longshore current with respect to cross-shore location. The longshore current was higher near the outer bar area than that observed near the inner bar. Moreover, the current became higher during the low tide and lower during the high tide. A longshore current model was proposed using the spring and neap tide data sets and then applied to the remaining observation period during large events of incident wave energy flux. The model with the relative water level luded provided sufficient accuracy to account for the tide effects.

中文翻译：

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潮差对岸边海流变化的影响相对于禁止海滩的跨岸位置

摘要 使用水平安装的声学多普勒电流剖面仪 (H-ADCP) 在耗散的禁止海滩上观察了冲浪区的沿岸和跨岸洋流 20 天。这种新颖的部署策略允许在几个跨岸位置对大约中等深度的近岸海流进行天气测量。沿岸流数据与波浪和潮位数据一起分析，以显示潮差对沿岸流相对于跨海岸位置的变化的影响。外杆区附近的沿岸流高于内杆区附近观察到的沿岸流。此外，水流在低潮时变高，在涨潮时变低。使用春潮和小潮数据集提出了一种沿岸流模型，然后将其应用于入射波能量通量大事件期间的剩余观测期。带有相对水位的模型提供了足够的精度来解释潮汐效应。