Both the dyeing and finishing of textiles with natural compounds are gaining increasing attention because of various environmental and health problems associated with the use of synthetic reagents. In this study, wool fibres were dyed with three natural dyes, namely, Arnebia euchroma, cotton pods and harmal seeds. Alum was used as the mordant, and samples were mordanted by the premordanting method. Oxygen plasma was employed for the surface modification of wool. Plasma treatment time, alum concentration, dyebath temperature and pH were selected as the process variables, and their effects on the K/S of the dyed samples were analysed using D‐optimal design. The surface topography, morphology and chemistry of the wool fibres after plasma treatment were studied by atomic force microscopy (AFM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), respectively. FTIR confirmed the creation of new oxygen‐containing groups on the surface of wool fibres after plasma treatment. SEM and AFM images confirmed the surface etching and increase in the roughness of plasma‐treated fibres. Increasing the dyebath pH and temperature increased the K/S of the dyed samples. Increasing the amount of alum mordant increased the K/S of samples dyed with cotton pods but decreased the K/S of samples dyed with A. euchroma and harmal seeds. Increasing the plasma treatment time improved the K/S of samples dyed with A. euchroma and cotton pods but had no significant effect on the K/S of samples dyed with harmal seeds.

中文翻译：

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D-最优化设计在三种天然染料对等离子处理羊毛染色的分析和建模中的应用

由于与合成试剂的使用有关的各种环境和健康问题，用天然化合物对纺织品进行染色和整理都越来越受到关注。在这项研究中，羊毛纤维用三种天然染料，即紫草，棉荚和有害种子染色。使用明矾作为媒染剂，并通过媒染法对样品进行媒染。氧等离子体用于羊毛的表面改性。选择等离子体处理时间，明矾浓度，染浴温度和pH作为过程变量，以及它们对K / S的影响使用D优化设计分析了一半的染色样品。分别通过原子力显微镜（AFM），扫描电子显微镜（SEM）和傅里叶变换红外光谱（FTIR）研究了等离子体处理后的羊毛纤维的表面形貌，形态和化学性质。FTIR证实等离子处理后，在羊毛纤维表面产生了新的含氧基团。SEM和AFM图像证实了等离子处理过的纤维的表面蚀刻和粗糙度的增加。增加染浴的pH和温度会增加染色样品的K / S。增加明矾媒染剂的数量会增加用棉荚染色的样品的K / S，但会降低常绿染色的样品的K / S和有害的种子。增加等离子处理时间可以改善常绿假单胞菌和棉荚果染色的样品的K / S，但对有害种子染色的样品的K / S没有显着影响。