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Reactive dyeing of silk using commercial acid dyes based on a three‐component Mannich‐type reaction
Coloration Technology ( IF 2.0 ) Pub Date : 2020-03-25 , DOI: 10.1111/cote.12471
Qing Guo 1 , Wei‐guo Chen 1, 2 , Zhi‐hua Cui 1, 2 , Hua Jiang 1, 2
Affiliation  

Acid dyes are employed for commercially dyeing silk, which results in ionic bonds between the silk fibroin and the dye. This generally leads to low wet fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics. In this work, three commercial acid dyes with aromatic primary amine structures were selected to dye silk using a Mannich‐type reaction, resulting in improved wet fastness of dyed silk by forming covalent bonds between silk fibroin and dye. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing was applied to silk fabrics at both 30 and 90°C in trials. Dyeing at 90°C can shorten the dyeing time compared with dyeing at 30°C, even although dye exhaustion and relative fixation at 90°C were a little lower. The dyeing process was optimised when the dyeing temperature was 90°C, dyebath pH 4, dye‐to‐formaldehyde ratio 1:30 and holding dyeing time 60 minutes. The results showed that the dye exhaustion on silk fabrics for the three aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes exceeded 94% and their relative fixation was over 80%. Their washing and rubbing fastness reached grade 4 or higher. Hence, the colour fastness properties of dyed silk fabrics using the Mannich‐type reactive dyeing method is superior to the conventional acid dyeing method using the same aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing for silk fabrics at 90°C can be developed into a novel and rapid reactive dyeing method, promising an effective dyeing process with excellent colour fastness.

中文翻译:

使用基于三组分曼尼希型反应的商业酸性染料对丝绸进行活性染色

酸性染料用于对丝绸进行商业染色,这会导致丝素蛋白与染料之间形成离子键。这通常导致染色的丝织物的耐湿牢度低。在这项工作中,使用曼尼希型反应选择了三种具有芳香族伯胺结构的商业酸性染料对丝绸进行染色,通过在丝素蛋白和染料之间形成共价键,从而提高了染色丝绸的湿牢度。在试验中,曼尼希型活性染料在30和90°C的温度下都用于真丝织物。与90°C相比,在90°C染色可以缩短染色时间,即使90°C时的染料消耗和相对固着性稍低。当染色温度为90°C,染浴pH为4,染料与甲醛的比例为1:30且保持染色时间为60分钟时,染色过程得到了优化。结果表明,三种芳香族伯胺基酸性染料在真丝织物上的染料耗竭率均超过94%,其相对固色率超过80%。他们的耐洗牢度达到4级或更高。因此,使用曼尼希式反应性染色法染色的真丝织物的色牢度性能优于使用相同芳香族伯胺基酸性染料的传统酸性染色法。曼尼希式90°C真丝织物的活性染色可以发展成为一种新颖,快速的活性染色方法,有望实现一种具有出色色牢度的有效染色工艺。使用曼尼希(Mannich)型反应性染色方法染色的真丝织物的色牢度性能优于使用相同的含芳香族伯胺的酸性染料的常规酸性染色方法。曼尼希式90°C真丝织物的活性染色可以发展成为一种新颖,快速的活性染色方法,有望实现一种具有出色色牢度的有效染色工艺。使用曼尼希(Mannich)型反应性染色方法染色的真丝织物的色牢度性能优于使用相同的含芳香族伯胺的酸性染料的常规酸性染色方法。曼尼希式90°C真丝织物的活性染色可以发展成为一种新颖,快速的活性染色方法,有望实现一种具有出色色牢度的有效染色工艺。
更新日期:2020-03-25
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