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Sugar Surfactant‐Based Shampoos
Journal of Surfactants and Detergents ( IF 1.6 ) Pub Date : 2020-04-28 , DOI: 10.1002/jsde.12415 Andreia Nunes 1, 2 , Paula Marques 1 , Joana Marto 2 , Andreia Ascenso 2 , Lídia Gonçalves 2 , Manuel Fitas 3 , Pedro Pinto 2, 3 , João Sotomayor 4 , Helena M. Ribeiro 2
Journal of Surfactants and Detergents ( IF 1.6 ) Pub Date : 2020-04-28 , DOI: 10.1002/jsde.12415 Andreia Nunes 1, 2 , Paula Marques 1 , Joana Marto 2 , Andreia Ascenso 2 , Lídia Gonçalves 2 , Manuel Fitas 3 , Pedro Pinto 2, 3 , João Sotomayor 4 , Helena M. Ribeiro 2
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Naturally derived surfactants in hair care products are a trend in cosmetic technology. This study aimed to formulate and fully characterize the performance of shampoos with sugar‐derived surfactants, namely, the alkyl polyglucosides decyl glucoside and coco‐glucoside. In addition, different thickeners and conditioning ingredients were added to improve the formulation properties. A sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) formulation was used as control. Rheology, pH, foaming, contact angles on a keratin surface, and surface tensions were determined. The safety of the formulations was evaluated by in vitro cytotoxicity studies using the human keratinocyte HaCaT cell line and human retinal pigment epithelial cells ARPE‐19. The efficacies were studied by in vitro hair combing force assays and in vivo sensorial analysis. The formulated sugar surfactant‐based shampoos showed the following properties: (i) pH values higher than those of SLES (which were posteriorly lowered with lactic acid); (ii) higher foamability than SLES, and high wettability; (iii) Newtonian behavior and predominance of liquid state with a suitable viscosity; (iv) low cytotoxicity in both human keratinocytes and retinal cell lines (in contrast to SLES); (v) easier hair combing than SLES, when Polyquaternium‐7 was used as conditioner; (vi) efficient and gentle hair washing; and (vii) favorable sensorial analysis confirming the previous washing properties. In conclusion, the sugar surfactants had a considerable impact in the properties of the shampoo formulations, in terms of both hair cleansing properties and efficacy, as demonstrated here. These favorable outcomes clearly support the use of these ingredients in shampoo formulation design.
中文翻译：
糖表面活性剂洗发水
护发产品中天然衍生的表面活性剂是美容技术的趋势。这项研究旨在用糖基表面活性剂，即烷基聚葡糖苷癸基葡糖苷和椰油糖苷来配制和全面表征洗发剂的性能。此外，添加了不同的增稠剂和调理成分以改善配方性能。十二烷基硫酸钠（SLES）制剂用作对照。测定流变学，pH，发泡，角蛋白表面上的接触角和表面张力。使用人角质形成细胞HaCaT细胞系和人视网膜色素上皮细胞ARPE-19通过体外细胞毒性研究评估了制剂的安全性。通过体外头发梳理力试验研究了功效，体内感官分析。配制的基于糖表面活性剂的洗发剂具有以下特性：（i）pH值高于SLES（后来被乳酸降低）的SLES；（ii）发泡性比SLES高，润湿性高；（iii）具有适当粘度的牛顿行为和主要的液态状态；（iv）人角质形成细胞和视网膜细胞系的细胞毒性都较低（与SLES相反）；（v）当使用Polyquaternium-7作为护发素时，比SLES的头发梳理更容易；（vi）高效温和的洗发；（vii）有利的感官分析证实了先前的洗涤性能。综上所述，糖表面活性剂在洗发剂配方的性能上，在头发清洁性能和功效方面都具有相当大的影响，如此处所示。
更新日期：2020-04-28
中文翻译：
糖表面活性剂洗发水
护发产品中天然衍生的表面活性剂是美容技术的趋势。这项研究旨在用糖基表面活性剂，即烷基聚葡糖苷癸基葡糖苷和椰油糖苷来配制和全面表征洗发剂的性能。此外，添加了不同的增稠剂和调理成分以改善配方性能。十二烷基硫酸钠（SLES）制剂用作对照。测定流变学，pH，发泡，角蛋白表面上的接触角和表面张力。使用人角质形成细胞HaCaT细胞系和人视网膜色素上皮细胞ARPE-19通过体外细胞毒性研究评估了制剂的安全性。通过体外头发梳理力试验研究了功效，体内感官分析。配制的基于糖表面活性剂的洗发剂具有以下特性：（i）pH值高于SLES（后来被乳酸降低）的SLES；（ii）发泡性比SLES高，润湿性高；（iii）具有适当粘度的牛顿行为和主要的液态状态；（iv）人角质形成细胞和视网膜细胞系的细胞毒性都较低（与SLES相反）；（v）当使用Polyquaternium-7作为护发素时，比SLES的头发梳理更容易；（vi）高效温和的洗发；（vii）有利的感官分析证实了先前的洗涤性能。综上所述，糖表面活性剂在洗发剂配方的性能上，在头发清洁性能和功效方面都具有相当大的影响，如此处所示。
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