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Influence of the climatic variations in the wind waves parameters on the alongshore sediment transport
Oceanologia ( IF 2.6 ) Pub Date : 2019-12-07 , DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2019.11.002
Boris V. Divinsky , Ruben D. Kosyan

The purpose of this work was to analyze the influence of climatic variability of wind waves and swell parameters in the coastal zone on the sediment transport and to assess the contribution of the swell to the formation of alongshore fluxes. The object of research is the Anapa bay-bar (the Black Sea). Mathematical modeling has shown that in the Anapa bay-bar area the average annual wind waves and swell powers have significant interannual variability. For the period from 1979 to 2017, in the southern part of the bay-bar, there was a statistically significant decrease in the share of swell in the alongshore transport, directed from NW to SE, in the central part – an increase in the contribution of swell to the total sediment flow from SE to NW, in the northern part – probable increase in flows to NW and decrease – to SE. Such a dynamic is consistent, in general, with experimental observations of the processes of erosion and accumulation of beach-forming material along the Anapa bay-bar coastline. A separate description of the bottom sediment fluxes under the influence of wind waves and swell made it possible to explain the fluctuations of the coastline over a climatic period.



中文翻译:

风浪参数的气候变化对近岸沉积物迁移的影响

这项工作的目的是分析沿海地区风浪和涨潮参数的气候变化对沉积物迁移的影响,并评估涨潮对沿海通量形成的贡献。研究的对象是阿纳帕湾酒吧(黑海)。数学模型表明,在阿纳帕湾-巴尔地区,年平均风浪和膨胀功率具有明显的年际变化。在1979年至2017年期间,在海湾酒吧的南部,从西北方向到东南部的中部沿海运输的涌浪所占比例在统计上显着下降–贡献的增加在北部,从SE到NW的总泥沙流量的增加(到NW的流量可能增加而到SE的流量减少)。这样的动态是一致的,通常,通过对阿纳帕湾-巴尔海岸线沿岸海滩形成物质的侵蚀和积累过程的实验观察。对风浪和海浪影响下的底部沉积物通量的单独描述使得可以解释气候期间海岸线的波动。

更新日期:2019-12-07
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