Abstract Dredging and excavation activities on fringing reefs have potential impacts such as the coastal inundation during extreme wave events, and no published laboratory experiments have addressed this issue. To verify the previous findings from both field observations and numerical simulations, and focus on evaluating the alteration of wave processes over fringing reefs by an excavation pit, a new set of laboratory experiments are carried out in a wave flume based on an idealized fringing reef model with and without a reef-flat pit. Experimental results are reported for a series of spectral wave conditions and pit widths. It is found that the sea and swell (SS) waves near the shoreline can be increased or decreased, depending both on the incident wave condition and the pit width. Whereas the infragravity (IG) waves reaching the shoreline are consistently reduced by an average of 10.5% when the pit exists, and such reduction is enhanced with increasing pit width. An analysis of the involved hydrodynamic processes indicates that the variation of shoreline SS wave energy depends on the relative importance of such processes as increased wave reflection around the pit, decreased dissipation with wave breaking, decreased energy transfer with nonlinear wave-wave interaction and wave resonance excited in the pit. However, the reduction of shoreline IG wave energy is due to the combined effects of a disruption of resonant standing wave pattern on the reef flat and increased wave reflection around the pit.

中文翻译：

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带礁坪开挖坑的岸礁波浪过程的实验室研究

摘要 对边缘礁进行疏浚和挖掘活动具有潜在影响，例如极端波浪事件期间的沿海淹没，并且没有已发表的实验室实验解决了这个问题。为了验证先前的野外观测和数值模拟结果，并重点评估挖掘坑对岸礁上波浪过程的改变，基于理想化的岸礁模型在波浪槽中进行了一组新的实验室实验。有和没有礁坪坑。报告了一系列光谱波条件和凹坑宽度的实验结果。发现海岸线附近的海浪和涌浪 (SS) 波可以增加或减少，这取决于入射波条件和坑宽度。而当坑存在时，到达海岸线的超重力 (IG) 波持续平均减少 10.5%，并且这种减少随着坑宽度的增加而增强。对所涉及的水动力过程的分析表明，海岸线 SS 波能的变化取决于诸如坑周围波反射增加、波浪破碎时耗散减少、非线性波波相互作用和波浪共振减少能量传递等过程的相对重要性。兴奋在坑里。然而，海岸线 IG 波能量的减少是由于礁滩上共振驻波模式的破坏和坑周围波反射增加的综合影响。对所涉及的水动力过程的分析表明，海岸线 SS 波能的变化取决于诸如坑周围波反射增加、波浪破碎时耗散减少、非线性波波相互作用和波浪共振减少能量传递等过程的相对重要性兴奋在坑里。然而，海岸线 IG 波能量的减少是由于礁滩上共振驻波模式的破坏和坑周围波反射增加的综合影响。对所涉及的水动力过程的分析表明，海岸线 SS 波能的变化取决于诸如坑周围波反射增加、波浪破碎时耗散减少、非线性波波相互作用和波浪共振减少能量传递等过程的相对重要性。兴奋在坑里。然而，海岸线 IG 波能量的减少是由于礁滩上共振驻波模式的破坏和坑周围波反射增加的综合影响。通过在坑中激发的非线性波波相互作用和波共振减少能量传递。然而，海岸线 IG 波能量的减少是由于礁滩上共振驻波模式的破坏和坑周围波反射增加的综合影响。通过在坑中激发的非线性波波相互作用和波共振减少能量传递。然而，海岸线 IG 波能量的减少是由于礁滩上共振驻波模式的破坏和坑周围波反射增加的综合影响。