BACKGROUND Fermentation is an ancient technique for preserving and improving the qualities of food and beverages throughout the world. Microbial communities, not seen by the producers of fermented goods, are the actors involved in the fermentation process and are selected upon through different management processes in order to achieve a final product with culturally accepted features. This study documented the preparation of "colonche" which is a type of traditionally fermented beverages made with the fruits from several cactus species in two main producing regions of Mexico, the Altiplano and the Tehuacán Valley. We documented the selection processes of the cactus species used and the practices that could influence microbial community composition, as well as, how the producers reach the desirable sensorial attributes of the beverages. METHODS We conducted 53 semi-structured interviews and participatory observations with colonche producers in 7 communities of the Altiplano and the Tehuacán Valley in order to characterize the practices and processes involved in the elaboration of the beverage. Opuntia and columnar cacti species used in colonche production were collected during fieldwork and identified. Selected sensorial attributes of Opuntia colonches were characterized by a ranking table and visualized by principal component analysis in order to distinguish differences of this beverage in the Altiplano localities. RESULTS Thirteen cactus species are used for colonche production in both regions studied. In the Altiplano, the most commonly used fruit is Opuntia streptacantha because it contributes to the preferred attributes of the beverage in this region. Selection of substrates by producers depends on their preference and the availability of fruits of O. streptacantha and other species. Fermentation is mainly conducted in clay pots which is perceived to be the best type of vessel contributing to the preferred sensorial properties of colonche. The two main differences in colonche preparation between the villages are the practice of boiling the fruit juice and the use of pulque (fermented sap of Agave species) as inoculum. The most contrasting sensorial attributes selected between localities are the alcohol content and sweetness, which might be in accordance with the practices used for obtaining the final product. Colonche is produced mainly for direct consumption and secondarily used as a commercialized good to be sold for economic gains contributing to the general subsistence of households. The preparation methods are passed on by close relatives, mainly women. CONCLUSIONS Traditional producers of colonche use several techniques in order to reach specific sensorial attributes of the final product. The production of colonche has been upheld for generations but fermentation practices are divided into two categories; (1) the use of an inoculum (either from pulque, or from colonche saved from the previous year), and (2) the use of "spontaneous" fermentation. The differing practices documented reflect the contrasts in the preferred sensorial attributes between regions. Colonche is a beverage that contributes to regional pride, cultural identity and is appreciated because of its gastronomic value. Here, we argue that there is a clear relationship of human knowledge in the management of microbiota composition in order to produce this beverage. In-depth documentation of the microbiota composition and dynamics in colonche will contribute to the preservation of this valuable biocultural heritage.

中文翻译：

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墨西哥仙人掌果实发酵饮料中微生物的传统管理：一种人种生物学方法。

背景技术发酵是在世界范围内保存和改善食品和饮料品质的古老技术。发酵产品生产者看不到的微生物群落是发酵过程中的参与者，并通过不同的管理过程进行选择，从而获得具有文化认可特征的最终产品。这项研究记录了“ colonche”的制备过程，这种饮料是用墨西哥两个主要产区Altiplano和TehuacánValley的几种仙人掌种类的果实制成的传统发酵饮料。我们记录了所用仙人掌种类的选择过程以及可能影响微生物群落组成的实践，以及生产者如何达到饮料的理想感官特性。方法我们对Altiplano和Tehuacán山谷的7个社区的结肠炎生产者进行了53次半结构化访谈和参与性观察，以表征饮料制作所涉及的实践和过程。在野外工作期间收集并鉴定了用于结肠炎生产的仙人掌和柱状仙人掌物种。仙人掌表的某些感官属性通过排名表进行表征，并通过主成分分析进行可视化，以区分这种饮料在高原地区的差异。结果在所研究的两个地区，有13种仙人掌被用于结肠菌的生产。在高原地区，最常用的水果是链霉菌仙人掌（Opuntia streptacantha），因为它有助于该地区饮料的首选属性。生产者对底物的选择取决于他们的喜好和链球菌和其他物种的果实供应。发酵主要在陶罐中进行，陶罐被认为是有助于优选菌落感官特性的最佳容器。村庄之间在准备殖民地食物时的两个主要区别是煮沸果汁的做法和使用普尔克（龙舌兰属植物的发酵液）作为接种物。在位置之间选择的最相反的感官属性是酒精含量和甜度，这可能与用于获得最终产品的做法一致。菌落主要用于直接消费，其次是用作商业商品出售，以获取经济收益，从而有助于家庭的普遍生活。制备方法由近亲（主要是女性）传递。结论传统的结肠炎生产者使用多种技术以达到最终产品的特定感官属性。世代以来一直秉承结肠的生产，但发酵方法分为两类：（1）使用接种物（来自粪便或上一年保存的菌落），以及（2）使用“自发”发酵。记录的不同做法反映了区域之间首选感官属性的对比。克洛什（Colche）是一种饮料，有助于提高地区自豪感和文化个性，并因其美食价值而受到赞赏。这里，我们认为，为了生产这种饮料，在微生物群组成的管理中人类知识之间存在着明确的关系。关于菌落中微生物群组成和动态的深入文献将有助于保护这一宝贵的生物文化遗产。