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Statistical analysis of the interaction between wind-waves and currents during early wave generation
Coastal Engineering ( IF 4.2 ) Pub Date : 2020-08-01 , DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103672
L. Chiapponi , F. Addona , P. Díaz-Carrasco , M.A. Losada , S. Longo

Abstract We present the experimental analysis of the interaction between wind waves and currents, during the generation process, through laboratory experiments in a wind-waves-current tunnel. The objective is the quantification of the effects of a co-/counter-current on the main characteristics and statistical estimators of the wave field. Twenty-two experiments were performed with two different wind speed values and eleven different current speed values (including zero value, absence of current), with a ratio of current speed to group celerity u c / c g ∈ [ − 0.47 , + 0.30 ] , measuring the instantaneous water level in different sections with ultrasonic probes. The collected data allow the characterization of the free surface statistics, the calculation of the phase and group celerity of the waves, the analysis of the grouping. The aim is the description of the complex interaction between different forcing terms effective during wave generation. We found that (i) spectral shape and evolution is extremely sensitive to tiny counter-currents, with a fast grows of a second peak, (ii) grouping and the statistics of the free surface reflect the action of the current; (iii) energy transfer and breaking are significantly affected by the currents. The results are new and original and represent a set of data for understanding the generation of waves by the wind in all conditions in which the currents are not negligible, for example in the surf zone, lagoons, estuaries, swamps, shallow lakes and shallow reservoirs.

中文翻译:

早期波浪产生过程中风浪与洋流相互作​​用的统计分析

摘要 我们通过风-浪-流隧道中的实验室实验,展示了在发电过程中风波与海流相互作用的实验分析。目标是量化顺流/逆流对波场的主要特征和统计估计量的影响。使用两种不同的风速值和 11 种不同的当前速度值(包括零值、无电流)进行了 22 次实验,其中当前速度与组速度之比 uc / cg ∈ [ − 0.47 , + 0.30 ] ,测量用超声波探头测量不同断面的瞬时水位。收集的数据允许表征自由表面统计、计算波的相位和群速度、分析群。目的是描述在波浪产生期间有效的不同强迫项之间的复杂相互作用。我们发现(i)光谱形状和演化对微小的逆流极其敏感,第二个峰值快速增长,(ii)自由表面的分组和统计反映了电流的作用;(iii) 能量转移和断开受电流的显着影响。结果是新的和原始的,代表了一组数据,用于了解在水流不可忽略的所有条件下风的产生,例如在冲浪区、泻湖、河口、沼泽、浅湖和浅水库. 我们发现(i)光谱形状和演化对微小的逆流极其敏感,第二个峰值快速增长,(ii)自由表面的分组和统计反映了电流的作用;(iii) 能量转移和断开受电流的显着影响。结果是新的和原始的,代表了一组数据,用于了解在水流不可忽略的所有条件下风的产生,例如在冲浪区、泻湖、河口、沼泽、浅湖和浅水库. 我们发现(i)光谱形状和演化对微小的逆流极其敏感,第二个峰值快速增长,(ii)自由表面的分组和统计反映了电流的作用;(iii) 能量转移和断开受电流的显着影响。结果是新的和原创的,代表了一组数据,用于了解在水流不可忽略的所有条件下风的产生,例如在冲浪区、泻湖、河口、沼泽、浅湖和浅水库.
更新日期:2020-08-01
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