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‘Neo-Crosssexual’ fashion in contemporary men’s suits
Fashion and Textiles ( IF 2.3 ) Pub Date : 2020-01-06 , DOI: 10.1186/s40691-019-0192-2
Hoe Ryung Lee , Jongsun Kim , Jisoo Ha

Today, fashionable menswear is appropriating traditionally feminine design elements on an unparalleled international scale. This phenomenon should not be interpreted purely as a subversive gender issue, but should also be viewed as an expression of personal style and taste. In order to properly describe this phenomenon, the term ‘crosssexual’ must be introduced to English fashion vocabulary. This paper examines the innovative design characteristics of contemporary crosssexual menswear emerging prominently in men’s suits since 2015 and also raises the necessity of coining a new term: ‘neo-crosssexual’. Ultimately, this paper reveals how neo-crosssexual fashion employs a great variety of innovative silhouettes and novel design elements—ranging from structural or decorative details to colors, fabrics, patterns, and accessories—all of which enable the wearer to express whatever image of themselves they desire. Previous studies have interpreted crosssexual fashion as men simply portraying themselves as effeminate by wearing such clothing, but this conclusion is reductive and reveals there is still an unconscious recognition of limiting binary associations. The richness of neo-crosssexual fashion design, rather, gives individuals freedom to choose a sartorial image devoid of binary constraints. Conventionally classified ‘feminine designs’ are now perceived as creative and functional means to fluidity. This positive cultural shift has led to an increasing number of men choosing to wear suits that incorporate ‘feminine’ design elements, freeing this traditional garment from its limited formal use and symbolic hegemonic power.

中文翻译:

当代男士西服中的“新跨性别”时尚

如今,时尚男装正以无与伦比的国际规模使用传统的女性设计元素。这种现象不应纯粹被解释为颠覆性的性别问题,而应被视为个人风格和品味的表达。为了恰当地描述这种现象,必须在英语时尚词汇中引入“跨性别”一词。本文探讨了自2015年以来在男士西服中崭露头角的当代跨性别男装的创新设计特征,并提出了创造一个新术语“ neo-crosssexual”的必要性。最终,本文揭示了新跨性别时尚如何运用各种创新的轮廓和新颖的设计元素-从结构或装饰细节到颜色,织物,图案,和配件-所有这些使佩戴者能够表达自己想要的任何图像。先前的研究已将交叉性时尚解释为男人只是简单地将自己描绘成穿着这样的衣服就显得自以为是,但是这一结论具有还原性,并揭示了人们仍在无意识地意识到限制二元关联性。相反,新双性恋时尚设计的丰富性使个人可以自由选择没有二元约束的服装形象。如今,传统上被归类为“女性设计”的产品被认为是流动性的创新和功能性手段。这种积极的文化变迁导致越来越多的男人选择穿上带有“女性”设计元素的西装,从而使这种传统服装摆脱了有限的正式使用和象征性的霸权。
更新日期:2020-01-06
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