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The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
Surveys in Geophysics ( IF 4.9 ) Pub Date : 2019-07-29 , DOI: 10.1007/s10712-019-09557-5
Guillaume Dodet , Angélique Melet , Fabrice Ardhuin , Xavier Bertin , Déborah Idier , Rafael Almar

Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. In this review, we describe the physical processes by which sea states may affect coastal sea level at several timescales, we present the methods currently used to estimate the wave contribution to coastal sea-level changes, we describe past and future wave climate variability, we discuss the contribution of wave to coastal sea-level changes, and we discuss the limitations and perspectives of this research field.

中文翻译:

风波对沿海海平面变化的贡献

风产生的表面重力波在我们的海洋中无处不在,并且在海洋-陆地-大气界面的动力学中发挥着重要作用。特别是,风产生的波浪会在几秒钟(个别波浪上升)到几小时(波浪引起的设置)的时间尺度上引起海岸海平面的波动。这些波浪引发的过程对于海岸管理非常重要,因为它们在风暴事件期间会增加潮汐和大气浪涌并加剧海岸洪水和侵蚀。与自然气候循环相关或由温室气体排放增加引起的大气环流变化会影响世界范围内的波浪条件,这可能会导致波浪引起的沿海流体动力学发生重大变化。由于海平面上升是可持续沿海管理的重大挑战,尤其是在低洼沿海地区和/或人口稠密的城市化海岸线,因此了解风浪对沿海海平面变化长期预算的影响非常重要。在这篇综述中,我们描述了海况在几个时间尺度上可能影响沿海海平面的物理过程,我们介绍了目前用于估计波浪对沿海海平面变化的贡献的方法,我们描述了过去和未来的波浪气候变化,我们讨论波浪对沿海海平面变化的贡献,并讨论该研究领域的局限性和前景。
更新日期:2019-07-29
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