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The Celebration of St. Viniri in Băeasă (Vovousa): Approaching the Archaeology of the Sacred Forests in Northwest Greece

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Abstract

In recent years there is a growing interest in the “Sacred Forests” (vakoúfika) of Zagori in Northwest Greece. These are either groves or individual trees, dedicated to patron saints, protected through customary laws, communal regulations, religious excommunications, and supernatural narratives. For ca. 300 years they have represented the tangible reminders of rituals, beliefs, and pre-modern ways of managing the commons to an extent that they survive in the present. This article introduces archaeology into the interdisciplinary discourse revolving around vakoúfika. Through the concepts of dwelling, walking, and archaeological ethnography, I evaluate the concept of static “traditional” mountainous communities and focus on the changes that might have occurred to the rituals and beliefs associated with vakoúfika over the past centuries. The case study is the Sacred Forest of Băeasă (Vovousa), dedicated to St. Viniri and the associated rituals. In situ observations and especially the exploration of the role of two stones in the celebration reveal an archaeological layer to the pilgrim, in which the center of the ritual was the forest not its associated chapel.

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Fig. 1

© Faidon Moudopoulos-Athanasiou

Fig. 2

© Kalliopi Stara

Fig. 3

© George Detsis

Fig. 4

© Faidon Moudopoulos-Athanasiou

Fig. 5

© George Detsis

Fig. 6
Fig. 7

© Faidon Moudopoulos-Athanasiou

Fig. 8

© Maria Nolla/Amaryllis Louverdi

Fig. 9

© Faidon Moudopoulos-Athanasiou

Fig. 10

© Faidon Moudopoulos-Athanasiou

Fig. 11

© Faidon Moudopoulos-Athanasiou

Fig. 12
Fig. 13

© Faidon Moudopoulos-Athanasiou

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Acknowledgments

An earlier version of this research was presented at Pilgrim CHAT, 2021, and I am grateful for the feedback I received on that occasion. My experience at the Vovousa Festival has facilitated my research in multiple ways and for this reason, I thank the director, Kamilo Nollas. After finishing my PhD at the University of Sheffield and before moving out of town at a time the university bureaucrats decided to shaft the department of archaeology, I found the writing of this article a decent escape from the neoliberal university reality and the advice of Paul Halstead and John Barrett in coffee shops around Nether Edge inspiring. I thank them for being there. Finally, I wish to express my gratitude George Detsis and Kalliopi Stara for providing me with the necessary visuals for this article and Maria and Amaryllis for creating the subjective map of figure 8.

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Moudopoulos-Athanasiou, F. The Celebration of St. Viniri in Băeasă (Vovousa): Approaching the Archaeology of the Sacred Forests in Northwest Greece. Int J Histor Archaeol 27, 575–597 (2023). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10761-022-00664-5

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